Great Value Wines: 8 Gracianos for Under $40

For Rioja winemakers, graciano can be a love or hate proposition.

Some purveyors of the region’s renowned tempranillos and garnachas who view the grape with disdain jokingly dismiss it with the puns “Gracia no” (lacking grace) or “Gracias, no” (no thanks). They gripe about its brooding color, bold tannins, high acidity, tendency toward low yields and susceptibility to downy mildew.

Yet we have noticed in our recent tastings of Spanish wines that graciano is staging a quiet comeback as a stand-alone varietal wine instead of being used solely as a blending agent to add color, structure and freshness to tempranillo and garnacha offerings.

A few wineries have finally come to recognize the grape’s unique appeal, with its spicy, peppery character and ability to resist drought seemingly tailor-made for the increasingly severe climatic challenges facing many regions and countries in the world.

What I enjoy most and certainly expect from a good graciano is the tangy, precise pepperiness with exotic aromas like basil and dried herbs that provoke you to smell, taste, and appreciate the best aspects of the grape.

Rioja today increasingly thirsts for uniqueness, diverse terroir expressions and individuality, and the niche that the underdog graciano is filling epitomizes a broader trend toward reviving Spain’s viticultural heritage, moving beyond the tempranillo monoculture and its limited clonal selections.

The exciting gracianos we have recently tasted, from producers like Contino, Bodegas Amaren and Villota, prove that this grape is anything but lacking in grace.

Rather, it provides a refreshing and distinctive alternative to the more ubiquitous tempranillo-based offerings, with a price point that, while not exactly “high street,” still represents good value for discerning oenophiles willing to explore beyond the beaten path.

Below are eight great value picks from Rioja and Navarra that we rated from 90 to 93 points and cost anywhere from $12 to $40 that may give you a fresher, spicier perspective of the grape. Buy a bottle of graciano to enjoy with meat and game or simply to hoist among friends.

– Zekun Shuai, Senior Editor