The classic home of chenin blanc, the Loire region in France, is a treasure trove of varietal offshoots, from dry Anjous and Savennieres to sparkling and still Vouvrays with their varying levels of sweetness. But there are also fresh and stylish cremants, and noble dessert wines like Bonnezeaux and Quart de Chaumes.
Chenin blanc was also one of the first traditional French varietals that found footing in the New World, and it is now well established in California, Argentina and Australia, with New Zealand coming on strong. But the one country where it has found the firmest footing, and the warmest welcome, is South Africa. The country’s climatic conditions, wealth of soil types and old-vine vineyards, some hundreds of years old, give chenin blanc the ideal environment for peak performance.
Many of South Africa’s old vineyards are remnants from the time when chenin was widely used as a base wine for bulk distillation of brandy. Once the old vines were put under the care of some enterprising viticulturists, however, they became a source for some premium white wines that led to the blossoming of South Africa’s wine industry. And now, chenin is at the forefront of a movement by producers to make very complex, terroir-drive, textural wines, particularly in the Swartland region.
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One of the top winemaking talents here, David Sadie, the co-owner with his wife of David & Nadia, are working hard to take the winemaking of the region, especially for chenin blancs, to the next level.
“You can’t just declare greatness,” he told us during our trip there last year. “You need to put a lot of time and effort in, and only after years you will understand if it was worth the investment.”
His chenin blancs showcase the unique character of the region, where the valley floor is almost entirely covered in wheat fields, the vineyards are planted on the elevated ranges of nearby mountains and hills, and the soils vary from mostly decomposed granite and schist to pockets of iron and quartz.
The David & Nadia Chenin Blanc Swartland Skaliekap Single Vineyard Wine 2021 represents the pinnacle for chenin blanc from the region – it commands incredible depth and texture while remaining fresh and vibrant throughout a long finish – but a more price-friendly option is the David & Nadia Chenin Blanc Swartland 2021, a fresh and bright but softly rounded offering with plenty of charming nuance.
There are two other South African chenins on our list below, the expressive but subtle Arendsig Chenin Blanc Robertson Inspirational Batch 3 2021 and the Kaapzicht Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch Kliprug 2021. They are both amazingly inexpensive, mostly due to the laxity of the South African economy.
Also check out our two French offerings – the exceptional Domaine FL Savennières Chamoureau 2019 and the citrusy, floral Château Soucherie Anjou Blanc Ivoire 2019. Both are from 2019, which was warm in the Loire, resulting in excellent ripeness but allowing the wines to retain plenty of freshness and acidity.
From New Zealand, we recommend the Fromm Chenin Blanc Marlborough 2020, a standout from the Marlborough region, and from the United States, the Pine Ridge Vineyards Chenin Blanc Viognier Napa Valley 2021 is a slightly off-dry but bright and fresh chenin-dominant blend priced at just under $15.
– Andrii Stetsiuk, Associate Editor
Domaine FL Savennières Chamboureau 2019 – JS97
International price: $30 (average)
Arendsig Chenin Blanc Robertson Inspirational Batch 3 2021 – JS93
Arendsig.co.za: $11.40 (SAR195)
Château Soucherie Anjou Blanc Ivoire 2019 – JS93
Vivino.com: $15.70
David & Nadia Chenin Blanc Swartland 2021 – JS93
International price: $25 (average)
Fromm Chenin Blanc Marlborough 2020 – JS93
Frommwinery.co.nz: $18.25 (NZ$28)
Kaapzicht Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch Kliprug 2021 – JS93
Vivino.com: $13.24
Pine Ridge Vineyards Chenin Blanc Viognier Napa Valley 2021 – JS92
Wine.com: $12.99
Vivino.com: $14.32
