The second-largest cru in Beaujolais, Morgon this year scored more 95-plus ratings than any other cru in our tastings of almost 400 Beaujolais wines.
Historically, Morgon is noted for being one of the original areas that the Romans planted when traveling upward through the Rhone before eventually arriving in Burgundy. One of the grapes that went into the ground was gamay, and it has since become the preferred grape of Beaujolais, not just due to its high yields and sturdy nature, but also because it has naturally stable acidity, even in warm vintages and at 13.5 percent to 14 percent alcohol. It also shows a wide range of special aromas from strawberries to violets to earth and bark, making this a popular varietal.
Located in the center of the Cru Beaujolais region, Morgon comprises about 250 wineries spread over 1,100 hectares. In general, Morgon is known for producing some of the fullest bodied and best aging wines in all of the cru Beaujolais region – you can expect a more austere side of Beaujolais in a pour, but one that is also elegant and graceful. And gamay is also helped by a relatively warm and dry climate, boosting its earlier ripening period. James has drunk Morgon with 10 to 20 years of bottle age and the wines are still beautiful to drink and take on an almost pinot noir, Burgundian quality.
Morgon’s diverse soil types – granite, fragile schist and clay – is partly why its wines can range from energetic and bright to structured and spicy. Its most famous subsection, Cote du Py, has an incredible volcanic soil that helps bring out a more complex, dense mineral character. It’s no surprise that our highest-rated Great Value Wine in the list below comes from this area. Looking at the hillsides of Morgon in Beaujolais is an awesome sight and makes one understand the special terroir of the area.
Beaujolais, and Morgon in particular, are noted for often using a vinification technique known as carbonic or semi-carbonic maceration: before the grapes are crushed, they are put into either an entirely carbon gas-filled environment (carbonic maceration) or a carbon-rich environment (semi-carbonic). This allows the fermentation process to begin while the juice is still in the grape, resulting in a more fruit-forward flavor with less tannin. This practice, however, is more of a tradition and not a requirement of wines made in the area. Many winemakers in Morgon and Beaujolais still use more Burgundian or classical techniques to great effect – both methods create excellent and structured wines. We find a year or two of bottle age makes most Morgon better.
READ MORE: BEAUJOLAIS CONTINUES TO COME OF AGE
Part of Morgon’s strength lies in the diverse styles of winemaking being explored by the fantastic community of world-class vintners in the area, who have helped lift the quality and focus of the winemaking. Some names of note from the region outside our suggestions below include Domaine de Colonat, Jean Foillard, Julien Sunier, Laurent Gauthier and Mee Godard. Each of these producers received a 95-point rating or above from us this year, and some received that score more than once.
Below are eight different Morgon wines, all priced $25 or less. At this price you can easily taste a large range of different styles and terroir as well as experience the excellent overall quality that this special cru has to offer. Many on our list come from 2019 and 2018, which Senior Editor Stuart Pigott recently described as lovely vintages that showcase exceptional depth and balance. They may be the best back-to-back vintages ever.
– Nathan Slone, Associate Editor
Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py 2019 – JS96
Vivino.com: $22.99
Dominique Piron Morgon Grand Cras 2017 – JS93
Wine.com: $23.99
Jean-Claude Debeaune Morgon Belles Grives 2018 – JS93
Totalwine.com: $16.99
Jean-Michel Dupré Morgon Le Griottier 2019 – JS93
KLWines: $17.99
Château des Jacques Morgon 2017 – JS92
Vivino.com: $23.99
Georges Duboeuf Morgon Domaine de Javernière 2019 – JS92
Wine.com: $23.99
Michel Guignier Morgon La Roche Pilée 2017 – JS92
Zachys.com: $24.99
Château de Pizay Morgon 2020 – JS90
Vivino.com: $19.99
