Germany’s Wonderful Take on Pinot Noir  

The German pinot noir in my glass is the very wine that scored the highest among all the wines that were tasted last week. For a region that isn’t yet famous for pinot noir, Schwaigern is already planted with almost 1,700 hectares of this grape varietal. Considering its concentration, silkiness and complexity, it was inevitable for Friedrich Becker Spätburgunder Pfalz Heydenreich GG 2013 to score a total of 97 points. However, I also knew that the rating might make the producer’s jaw drop and surprise readers who are not familiar with the producer Friedrich Becker in Schwaigern of Pfalz.

German Pinot Noir

Here’s a shot of the pinot noir grapes from Rheingau’s 2015 harvest at the end of August.

World’s Third-largest Grower of Pinot Noir

In fact, Germany has 11,787 hectares of pinot noir, making it the world’s third-largest grower of this grape varietal — just behind France and the United States. However, many consumers around Planet Wine are only just waking up to the reality that German red wines are not all light and insipid as some outdated wine books may describe. From the vintages 2005 and 2007, I see a handful of pinot noirs that are worthy of more than 95 points and even more that deserve 90 points or higher.

A German Wine Revolution

This vast change was triggered by the winemaking revolution in the 1980s. The producers, such as Karl Heinz Johner of Bischoffingen, Bernhard Huber in Malterdingen and Rainer Lingenfelder of Grosskarlbach, were those who brought the red winemaking know-how from Burgundy and the New World to Germany. However, the revolution did not just produce wines which simply topped the feeble German red wines of the 1970s. Instead, these producers kept relentlessly pushing the limits in winemaking and adapting their techniques in the vineyard and cellars to the varying climatic situations and soil types. And now, the new wines are fruitful results that confirm their deeply held conviction that one day Germany would produce world-class pinot noir.

But isn’t Germany just way too cold to properly ripen pinot noir? Often associated with the crisp rieslings that the nation produces, Germany certainly tends to give the impression that it is a cool climate region. However, that might not be the case. “In the far southwest of Germany, where my winery is located, we have the climate that Burgundy had in the 1980s and early 1990s,” Bernhard Huber explained before his passing in June 2014. The weather statistics since the last turn of the century confirm his assertion about the effects of climate change. “In sites such as Schlossberg, we have limestone soils that seem to be what persuaded the Cistercian monks to bring pinot noir to our area from Burgundy during the Middle Ages,” he elaborated.

German Pinot Noir

As one of the most important producers of wine — especially pinot noir — in Germany, produces some amazing pinots that you must try. Here’s a glass of freshly pressed pinot noir from the 2016 harvest.

Huber was already making some of the best pinot noirs in Germany, and now, his son Julian continues his work. With a total score of 98 points, his breathtakingly deep and refined Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder Baden Schlossberg GG 2015 is the highest rated wine in this tasting report. What’s even more extraordinary is that Bernhard Huber gained everyone’s attention with its 1990 Reserve, which is a wine made in their garage! Today, Julian Huber works in a facility that his father had designed to optimize fermentation in open-topped tanks, which is rather similar to those that the top producers of Burgundy use. After the Hubers acquired the vineyard and did a complete replanting of the site, they produced the first vintage of this wine in 2004.

Rising Stars in the Region

There are many stories of other new Germany pinot noir stars as well. For instance, Meyer-Näkel from the village of Dernau, which is managed by the Näkel sisters Meike and Dörte.Owned and directed by Gunter Künstler. Franz Künstler in Hochheim is also one of the rising stars which budded from humble beginnings to domestic fame. Now, the winery is doing extremely well with its increasing export success. The rising prices for red Burgundy during the last decade have also helped these German wineries charge healthy prices and still come off as good value. And a good part of their profits is generally plowed back into purchasing new vineyards and better winemaking equipment, all to produce wines of outstanding quality.

Some German pinot noirs, such as those from Becker and Bernhard, could easily be mistaken for Burgundy due to the similarities they share in terms of both climate and soils. However, wines such as the 94-point Meyer-Näkel Spätburgunder Ahr Kräuterberg GG 2015 and the 96-point Künstler Spätburgunder Rheingau Höllenberg GG 2015 have very different personalities than the rest of the wines due to the geology of the vineyards. These vines grow in sites with rocky slate soils and are situated in much steeper slopes than any of the Grand Cru or Premier Cru sites of Burgundy. On top of that, they are located considerably further north. These factors give the Kräuterberg GG an intensely herbal character — kräuter is herbs in German — and imbue the Höllenberg GG with striking floral and blackcurrant notes.

Located in the Rheingau region, the Höllenberg site of Assmannshausen plays a crucial role in the backstory of red wine revolution in Germany. Between 1925 and 1959, the state domaine in Assmannshausen made a string of astonishingly rich and silky pinot noirs. Now, wines from the 1947, 1949 and 1959 vintages are not only a collector’s dream but also a delicious pleasure to taste. Some of these wines were made by Ewald Schug, the father of Californian pinot noir star producer Walter Schug. However, after Ewald Schug’s retirement, the wines of the Assmannshausen declined, and so did the other good German pinot noirs from the 1960s. Today, the Assmannshausen is part of the new pinot noir scene and its Höllenberg spätburgunder are the most consistent and impressive wines in the portfolio of Kloster Eberbach.

German Pinot Noir

The Fürst family has been making wine since 1638. The son of Paul and Monika Fürst, Sebastian is now overseeing the management of the winery.

The big challenge for these rising German pinot noir isn’t getting the grapes ripen enough to make wines with a natural alcoholic content of 13 to 15 percent — like the typical red Burgundy — but rather getting enough fine tannins. “Above all we are looking for balance and elegance,” said Sebastian Fürst from the Fürst winery in Bürgstadt of the Franken region. Sebastian is now one of the leading red wine producers in the area, and his father Paul is known to be one of nation’s pinot pioneers.  

At Fürst, pinot noir could also mean the grape varietal named frühburgunder, which is a mutation of the grape that ripens earlier and creates spicy aromas unique to Germany; you can find these bottled as a varietal wine and they’ve been producing these since the 1980s. Of course, the genetics are crucial too. “Switching to planting the fine and trés fine massal selections of pinot noir from Burgundy was all about getting more refinement,” Sebastian Fürst commented. And it seems to have worked because his super silky 2015 Schlossberg GG consists a good portion of this new varietal and it was rated 96 points.

Global Trends in Pinot Noirs

In recent years, the producers started picking earlier to create wines with brighter aromas, more acidity and better color. This movement in trend also includes using less new oak casks for aging. If you’re are one of our regular readers, you will see that this is not the case with other wine countries and regions such as Bordeaux, Spain and Australia. These particular changes in Germany’s winemaking can be considered as one of the global trends in the wine industry, where producers are aiming to make more sharply defined wines with much greater freshness. This is evident in the excellent 2015 vintage, which is arguably the best vintage for German pinot noir so far. Considering how hot and dry that the growing season was, the wines boast remarkable brightness and vitality.

It’s also interesting to note that the sommeliers and merchants around the world are waking up to the new wines. Currently, Japan is the most important export market for Fritz Becker Jr. of Friedrich Becker, and he explained that the Japanese market “really gets our wines, particularly the GGs, which are our top single-vineyard wines.” And a few months ago, in the cool wine bars of New York City, I kept seeing pinots from Winzerei Lüttmer, which is based in a gritty corner of Berlin. And of course, the very Lüttmer’s 2016 Frühburgunder S I came across achieved a score of 94 points, which justifies German pinot noir’s growing popularity. — Contributing Editor, Stuart Pigott

Tasting Notes

Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder Baden Schlossberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Baden
Vintage 2015
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Prinz Spätburgunder Rheingau Hendelberg Reserve 2012

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2012
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Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder Baden Bienenberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Baden
Vintage 2015
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Chat Sauvage Spätburgunder Rheingau Rüdesheimer Drachenstein 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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Fürst Spätburgunder Franken Hundsrück GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Franken
Vintage 2015
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Fürst Spätburgunder Franken Schlossberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Franken
Vintage 2015
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Künstler Spätburgunder Rheingau Höllenberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Shelter Winery Spätburgunder Baden 2015

Country Germany
Region Baden
Vintage 2015
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Thörle Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Hölle 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Adeneuer Spätburgunder Ahr Gärkammer GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder Baden Sommerhalde GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Baden
Vintage 2015
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Chat Sauvage Spätburgunder Rheingau Johannisberger Hölle 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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Dautel Spätburgunder Württemberg Forstberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Württemberg
Vintage 2015
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Dr. Heger Spätburgunder Baden Achkarrer Schlossberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Baden
Vintage 2015
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Dr. Heger Spätburgunder Baden Vorderer Winklerberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Baden
Vintage 2015
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Fürst Spätburgunder Franken Centgrafenberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Franken
Vintage 2015
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Karl H. Johner Spätburgunder Baden SJ 2015

Country Germany
Region Baden
Vintage 2015
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Künstler Spätburgunder Rheingau Reichestal GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Thörle Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Probstey 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Aldinger Spätburgunder Württemberg Lämmler GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Württemberg
Vintage 2015
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Altenkirch Spätburgunder Rheingau Pfaffenwies Erstes Gewächs 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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August Kesseler Pinot Noir Rheingau Cuvée Max 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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Chat Sauvage Spätburgunder Rheingau Lorcher Kapellenberg 2012

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2012
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Dautel Spätburgunder Württemberg Schupen GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Württemberg
Vintage 2015
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Fürst Frühburgunder Franken R 2015

Country Germany
Region Franken
Vintage 2015
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Jean Stodden Spätburgunder Ahr Rosenthal GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Karl H. Johner Spätburgunder Baden Bischoffinger Steinbuck 2015

Country Germany
Region Baden
Vintage 2015
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Künstler Spätburgunder Rheingau Hochheim Stein 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Leitz Spätburgunder Rheingau Leitz-Becker Rothenberg 2009

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2009
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Luckert Spätburgunder Franken Maustal GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Franken
Vintage 2015
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Meyer-Näkel Spätburgunder Ahr Kräuterberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Schön Spätburgunder Rheingau Rüdesheimer Berg Roseneck Auslese 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Winzerei Lüttmer Frühburgunder Saale-Unstrut S 2016

Country Germany
Region Saale-Unstrut
Vintage 2016
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Adeneuer Spätburgunder Ahr Rosenthal GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Allendorf Spätburgunder Rheingau Höllenberg 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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August Kesseler Pinot Noir Rheingau Cuvée Max 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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Deutzerhof Spätburgunder Ahr Eck GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Fürst Spätburgunder Franken Bürgstädter Berg 2015

Country Germany
Region Franken
Vintage 2015
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Fürst Spätburgunder Franken Klingenberger 2015

Country Germany
Region Franken
Vintage 2015
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Gutzler Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Morstein GG 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2014
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Jean Stodden Spätburgunder Ahr Herrenberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Karl Haidle Spätburgunder Württemberg Burghalde GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Württemberg
Vintage 2015
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Kloster Eberbach Spätburgunder Rheingau Höllenberg GG 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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Künstler Spätburgunder Rheingau Assmannshausen 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Lützkendorf Spätburgunder Saale-Unstrut Hohe Gräte GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Saale-Unstrut
Vintage 2015
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Meyer-Näkel Spätburgunder Ahr Pfarrwingert GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Meyer-Näkel Spätburgunder Ahr Silberberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Prinz Spätburgunder Rheingau Hendelberg 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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Schön Spätburgunder Rheingau Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Auslese Alte Reben 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Schön Spätburgunder Rheingau Rüdesheimer Drachenstein Auslese 2011

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2011
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Thörle Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Hölle 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2014
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Thörle Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Saulheim Kalkstein 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Aldinger Spätburgunder Württemberg Marienglas GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Württemberg
Vintage 2015
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Allendorf Spätburgunder Rheingau Quercus 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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August Kesseler Spätburgunder Rheingau 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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Bercher Spätburgunder Baden Feuerberg-Kesselberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Baden
Vintage 2015
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Chat Sauvage Spätburgunder Rheingau Assmannshausen 2011

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2011
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Chat Sauvage Spätburgunder Rheingau Lorcher Schlossberg 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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Deutzerhof Spätburgunder Ahr Mönchberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Fürst Spätburgunder Franken Bürgstädter 2015

Country Germany
Region Franken
Vintage 2015
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Geil Frühburgunder Rheinhessen Geyersberg 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Georg Müller Spätburgunder Rheingau Daniel 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Grafen Neipperg Spätburgunder Württemberg Schlossberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Württemberg
Vintage 2015
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Jean Stodden Spätburgunder Ahr Handtberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Jean Stodden Spätburgunder Ahr Sonnenberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Karl H. Johner Spätburgunder Baden 2015

Country Germany
Region Baden
Vintage 2015
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Kloster Eberbach Spätburgunder Rheingau Assmannshausen Höllenberg Mauerwein 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Kreuzberg Frühburgunder Ahr Hardtberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Kreuzberg Spätburgunder Ahr Silberberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Krone Spätburgunder Rheingau Assmanshäuser Höllenberg 2012

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2012
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Leitz Spätburgunder Rheingau Leitz-Becker Rothenberg 2010

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2010
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St. Antony Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Pinot Noir 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Thörle Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Probstey 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2014
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Wagner-Stempel Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Siefersheim 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Winzerei Lüttmer Frühburgunder Saale-Unstrut 2015

Country Germany
Region Saale-Unstrut
Vintage 2015
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Chat Sauvage Spätburgunder Rheingau Schulz Nr. 1 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Altenkirch Spätburgunder Rheingau Rotschiefer 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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August Kesseler Spätburgunder Rheingau 2013

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Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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August Kesseler Spätburgunder Rheingau 2012

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Vintage 2012
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Becker Landgraf Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Muschelkalk 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2013
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Chat Sauvage Spätburgunder Rheingau Lorch 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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Deutzerhof Spätburgunder Ahr Kirchtürmchen GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Katharina Wechsler Spätburgunder Rheinhessen 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Kloster Eberbach Spätburgunder Rheingau Assmannshausen Höllenberg Gold Cap 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Kloster Eberbach Spätburgunder Rheingau Berg Schlossberg GG 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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Kreuzberg Spätburgunder Ahr Schieferlay GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Kreuzberg Spätburgunder Ahr Sonnenberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Krone Spätburgunder Rheingau Juwel 2012

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2012
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Künstler Spätburgunder Rheingau Tradition 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Meyer-Näkel Spätburgunder Ahr Sonnenberg GG 2015

Country Germany
Region Ahr
Vintage 2015
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Mirjam Schneider Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Kellersberg ***** 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2014
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Schön Spätburgunder Rheingau Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Spätlese 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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St. Antony Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Paterberg Pinot Noir 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Becker Landgraf Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Gau-Odernheimer 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Chat Sauvage Spätburgunder Rheingau 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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Georg Breuer Spätburgunder Rheingau GB Rosé 2016

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2016
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Heinz Nikolai Spätburgunder Rheingau Alte Reben 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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J. Neus Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Muschelkalk 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Kloster Eberbach Spätburgunder Rheingau 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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Kloster Eberbach Spätburgunder Rheingau Assmannshausen Höllenberg Blanc de Noirs Sekt 2012

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2012
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Kloster Eberbach Spätburgunder Rheingau Assmanshäuser Höllenberg 2015

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Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Künstler Spätburgunder Rheingau Rosé Trocken 2016

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2016
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Laquai Spätburgunder Rheingau Bodental-Steinberg 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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Laquai Spätburgunder Rheingau Trocken 2015

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Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Michel-Pfannebecker Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Flomborner Feuerberg Im Holzfass gereift 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Mirjam Schneider Spätburgunder Rheinhessen **** 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2014
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Querbach Spätburgunder Rheingau 2007

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2007
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Schäfer Spätburgunder Rheingau Hochheimer Reichestal Barrique 2015

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Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Schäfer Spätburgunder Rheingau Hochheimer Reichestal im Holzfass gereift 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Thörle Spätburgunder Rheinhessen 2016

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2016
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Thörle Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Saulheim 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2014
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Von Mumm Spätburgunder Rheingau Assmannshäuser 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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August Eser Spätburgunder Rheingau Mittelheimer St. Nikolaus 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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Balthasar Ress Spätburgunder Rheingau Caviar 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Becker Landgraf Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Rosenberg 2012

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2012
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Diefenhardt Spätburgunder Rheingau 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Georg Breuer Spätburgunder Rheingau 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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Georg Breuer Spätburgunder Rheingau GB Rouge 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Georg Gustav Huff Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Alte Reben *** 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2014
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Kaufmann Spätburgunder Rheingau 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Laquai Spätburgunder Rheingau Bodental-Steinberg Erstes Gewächs 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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Schloss Westerhaus Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Ingelheimer trocken 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2014
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Von Mumm Spätburgunder Rheingau Assmanshäuser Höllenberg 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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von Oetinger Spätburgunder Rheingau Blanc de Noirs Trocken 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Bossert Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Höllenbrand 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Georg Müller Spätburgunder Rheingau Hattenheimer Engelmannsberg Erste Lage 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2015
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Louis Guntrum Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Pinot Noir 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Maximin Grünhaus (von Schubert) Spätburgunder Mosel 2014

Country Germany
Region Mosel
Vintage 2014
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Diefenhardt Spätburgunder Rheingau Schlenzenberg 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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J. Neus Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Ingelheim 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Krone Spätburgunder Rheingau Assmanshäuser Höllenberg 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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Weinreich Spätburgunder & Schwarzriesling Rheinhessen 2015

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2015
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Prinz von Hessen Spätburgunder Rheingau 2013

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2013
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Krone Spätburgunder Rheingau Assmannshäuser 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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Krone Spätburgunder Rheingau 2014

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2014
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