(BORDEAUX, DEC. 14, 2010): After a few days tasting in Bordeaux, I can say that I am pleasantly surprised with the quality of 2008. It is obviously not a great vintage, but the top wines are wonderfully perfumed with pretty fruit and fine tannins. Vintages such as 2001 and 2004 come to mind as a comparison, or perhaps something like 1985 or 1988 makes sense?
I am tasting wines blind in my hotel as well as tasting in various chateaux. The wines are showing well, and even the top wines seem to be reds that will be very drinkable in three to five years; although they will improve with age for much longer.
The winemakers I have spoken to so far seem much happier with their wines now than when they were talking about them in the beginning. “These are classic style Bordeaux,” said Pierre Lurton, the president of the famous St.-Emilion Cheval Blanc. He noted the fine tannins in the wines as well as the bright acidities. “It was a late harvest and you had to pick at the right time.”
The best thing about 2008 is the price. With a few exceptions, most of the top wines remain fairly priced compared to the astronomical 2009 — although the latter is a superior year, as we all know. Some people may want to buy 2008 in lieu of 2009 and other expensive years to secure a few bottles or cases of top name Bordeaux for drinking.
“I am very happy with the quality of 2008,” said Olivier Berrouet, the winemaker of Chateau Petrus, the famous Pomerol wine estate. “It could be like 1988, 1989 and 1990 — 2008, 2009 and 2010.