Bordeaux Confidential is returning this week on March 6 and 7. We had the opportunity to speak to celebrated Chef Mikael Le Clezio, the official chef at the iconic first-growth Château Mouton Rothschild. Le Clezio will be crafting a bespoke menu to be served at The Principal on March 6 and 7, to celebrate the second edition of Bordeaux Confidential. He tells us about his experience to date, his thoughts on wine-pairing and all the details on Mouton’s signature style of cuisine.
JamesSuckling.com: We understand that both of your parents were in the restaurant business and you developed your love of cooking from an early age. What do you like most about being a chef and how did you ultimately decide to pursue your passion?
Mikael Le Clezio: I come from Brittany and I love working with seafood and fish since the early stages. I also love travelling, and being a chef allows you to work in very diverse restaurants. On my end, that includes Switzerland, The Antilles and around France.
JamesSuckling.com: You’ve worked at notable restaurants including L’Hermitage and have relocated to France since then. How does that experience differ from your current role?
MLC: Every restaurant has its own team and personality. What I really learnt since working at Château Mouton Rothschild is the importance of food and wine pairing. The quality standards are very high at Mouton, which allows me to work with best products.
JamesSuckling.com: Tell us about your experience at Château Mouton Rothschild to date. Have there been any highlights that have stuck in your memory?
MLC: I have lots of great memories with the late Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, who had a strong personality. It was hard for all of us when she left. Fortunately, her children take over step by step and have kept Château Mouton Rothschild’s philosophy at the residence.
JamesSuckling.com: We understand that Mouton has its own traditional style of cuisine. Could you tell us more about this?
MLC: It is “cuisine bourgeoise”, as it is called in French, with simple decoration but quality products from France. At Mouton, we also provide the “a la Française” service which means that our guests serve themselves directly from the waiters’ plates.
JamesSuckling.com: What sets Mouton’s style apart from others?
MLC: We put great importance on the product selection and, of course, in the taste. Nothing is worse than a tasteless dish. Our goal is also to keep Mouton’s tradition for excellence.
JamesSuckling.com: What is your vision for the Château Mouton Rothschild style of cuisine and how will it develop in the future?
MLC: Bourgeoise cuisine is a little revisited nowadays and we use less butter and sugar than before. We also try other sorts of meat or fish and adapt recipes such as the pigeon in puff pastry.
JamesSuckling.com: Would you be able to share the idea behind the diverse menu for Bordeaux Confidential?
MLC: The chilled aspic of lobster and langoustines with a reduction of watercress and herbs, and ravioli of handpicked morels and truffles are two classic dishes from Mouton that we often serve to our guests at the Château. The baby pigeon wrapped in delicate puff pastry with foie gras and minced cabbage is one of our new dishes that keeps in with the tradition and spirit of Mouton cuisine.
JamesSuckling.com: How does the wine of Château Mouton Rothschild inspire you in the kitchen?
MLC: I hardly ever use wine-based sauces, because my goal is to let the wines fully express themselves. A sommelier works with me for the food and wine pairings and we taste and discuss together for each dish I design. This is a very important process that gives us new inspirations.
JamesSuckling.com: What is the perfect food and wine pairing with a great mature bottle of Mouton Rothschild?
MLC: To me, a leg of lamb with vegetables from the garden and candied garlic is the perfect match with Château Mouton Rothschild 1982.
JamesSuckling.com: What is your favorite vintage of Mouton and why?
MLC: I was lucky enough to taste Château Mouton Rothschild 1947 during some exclusive dinners and this is probably the most amazing wine experience I have ever had. I was very impressed by the richness and complexity of the nose and the very long finish.
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