I made my annual pilgrimage for JamesSuckling.com to Champagne a little earlier this year and caught the region in a balmy lead up to harvest. I wrote last year in my introduction to the report about the importance of evolution in the region and the wider acknowledgement of its importance to long term success. It’s something akin to a reboot for the region.
The impression I left with this year after I tasted more than 260 Champagnes was that of adventure. I’ve said for a few years now there’s never been a more interesting time to drink Champagne, and the way in which terroir-driven Champagnes have come to the forefront is a frontiers movement in taste. And not to be outdone, the more established houses continue to seek ways to refine and sectors of their offering to reinvent or add to.
But the power of season, specifically that of an outstanding vintage, is one that will not be denied or forgotten in Champagne. Whether it is championed as a unique bottling or stacked away in the form of reserve wine for coming blends. A great vintage lifts the entire region; something about a high tide makes everything float.
Selection from Louis Roederer
And this was never more obvious than at Louis Roederer where winemaker Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon presented an array of fascinating Champagnes, some old and some new. All were excellent. The headline here is that the 2008 Cristal, which will be released in 2018, is offered with ten years under its belt on release. It adds to the complexity of the wine.
Lecaillon compares the 2008 season to that of 1996 with one important exception. “We remembered ’96 and what we learned from that harvest,” he says. “In 2008 we applied that learning and the result is, I believe, the best Cristal I have made to date.” It certainly has piercingly powerful attitude. It is flawless and focused as well as expressive and intricate. It is a superstar Champagne that sits alongside the blindingly good 2002 Krug that has a perfect 100 point rating from last year.
Krug’s newly-released 2004 vintage comes after two highly unusual vintages released in reverse sequence: 2003 and 2002. The 2004 marks a rare trio of consecutive vintages which will not extend to a quartet as no 2005 is bottled. This 2004 is a classically styled vintage for Krug with chardonnay leading the charge for now. It has much in common with the 2002 but arrives without the rampaging power of that vintage. It is more measured.
Impressive line-up from Billecart-Salmon
Billecart-Salmon was another house who weighed in with several outstanding Champagnes lead by the 2002 Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart and it hammered home the message of great vintage prowess even further. The 2002 vintage never fails to impress!
Selosse continues to lead an evolving army of smaller grower-based offerings with a level of commanding skill and quality. The level of complexity and interest coupled with essence-like purity and refinement is second to none. Chartogne-Taillet in the village of Merfy is a helm of value and uniqueness, Sélèque ekes out the most intricate detail and Pierre Peters, Geoffroy and Léclapart all add their own shades to the colorful offering.
Even Dom Perignon released a very vinous and terroir driven Champagne this year with the 2009, making it one of the best in years. Check out James’ short report. There is also a video of his visit to Dom Perignon’s headquarters.
Vive la difference! Reboot! – Nick Stock, contributing editor
