My Article: Brunello and Abalone in Hong Kong

Brunello di Montalcino is probably the best-known Italian appellation in Hong Kong, despite most wine savvy consumers’ focus on the big name Super Tuscans, such as Solaia and Masseto. Many also like Sassicaia, but they probably aren’t aware that it has its own appellation or that it is part of the more general coastal wine zone of Bolgheri.

That’s why a Brunello di Montalcino event about a week ago in Hong Kong at the high end Chinese restaurant Island Tang, hosted by the Hong Kong Tatler James Suckling Wine Club, was so fascinating. The close to 100 attendees seemed elated – even surprised – with the quality of the Brunellos and how well they went with the various courses of Chinese cuisine, from double boiled whole abalone with cabbage in chicken bouillon, to stewed Wagyu beef cheek with Zhu Haw sauce.

I think that Italian wines, particularly from indigenous grape types from Italy, will be the next big thing in Hong Kong, and perhaps the rest of China.

The wines served at the event were 2006 and 2007 Brunellos from Valdicava, Casanova di Neri, Siro Pacenti, and San Filippo, including the 100-point 2006 Vadicava Madonna del Piano and 99-point 2006 Casanova di Neri Cerretalto. Click for my latest tasting report on 2007 Brunello as well as 2006 Brunello Riserva.

The overwhelming preference of the group was for the 2006 Brunellos. The wines were slightly more refined and structured with firmer tannins, denser fruit, and brighter acidity. The 2007s were fruitier with more velvety tannins. I explained that this was due to the more consistent growing season during the summer of 2006 when it was less hot in August than 2007.

I thought all the wines showed extremely well, and they hadn’t changed much since I tasted them earlier in this year for the various tasting reports on this website. I only wished the wines had all been decanted two or three hours before the event, which would have given everyone a chance to see more of the beautiful fruit in the wines. They had been opened about two hours in advance.

However, this resilience to air shows how great these two back-to-back vintages are for Brunello, and how they will give pleasure for decades in the future.

For more on the Hong Kong wine and food scene, go to www.asiatatler.com.