Beechworth and King Valley Annual Report: Nebbiolos Unleashed and Syrah's Stylish Side
Beechworth, a small town three-and-a-half hours northeast of Melbourne in the state of Victoria, is a land of flaxen hills amid granitic outcrops set in relief against the ascendency of the Australian Alps, diminutively referred to as the “Snowy Mountains” in local parlance. It is a beautiful town by virtue of its natural attributes, vineyards and stately architecture, the latter bequeathed by the discovery of gold at Spring Creek in 1852 and the wealth that came with it, shaping the local demography much like the Gold Rush of California. Optimistic prospectors descended on the town and its environs from the United States, China, England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales, bringing the population above 20,000 inhabitants by 1857. Today, though, many visitors come for the wine.
I made my umpteenth visit to the region in late January, tasting the best expressions from Beechworth and neighboring King Valley, a similarly sub-alpine region marked by the kinship of a continental climate, forceful winds and the inherent diurnal shifts of temperature that help to retain natural acidity in the grapes.
Unlike Beechworth’s more dramatic vineyards, however, this is a bucolic vineyard scape that runs contiguous to the King River, a sinuous flow from its upper reaches in the Alpine National Park, due north of the small city of Wangaratta, to a broader river basin in the north around Milawa and Moyhu, before growing in trajectory amid steeper alpine slopes in the south at over 800 meters.
Subsequently, the geological makeup of King Valley is starkly different than Beechworth. Beechworth boasts volcanic granite at higher points in the northern sector, and more siltstone, quartz, silica and shale in the lower southern zone, fragmented and dispersed across its lower southern ebbs to reflect ancient lava flows, seismic shifts and the subsequent geological formations. Conversely, the gentler landscape of the King Valley consists of a wash of deep red clays, high in iron content, to lighter gray and brown loams, planted to 1,535 hectares. This is considerably vaster than Beechworth’s meager 130.
If we observe the wines in these neighboring regions through a cultural lens, gold and the laissez-faire nature of its procurement and trading brought splendor to Beechworth. The attraction to a lifestyle founded on plenty eventually brought wine.
Symbolically, the region’s oldest vineyard, recently rejuvenated by Melbourne restaurateur Peter Bartholomew, is planted on precipitous slopes above an old quarry leading to Reid’s Creek Goldfield site and the old mine shafts scattered throughout. “The project at Granjoux vineyard has been most enjoyable and rewarding,” Bartholomew told me. “It has had its challenges and difficulties but I can only imagine the scale of the undertaking in the late 1850s. We have kept as true to the original planting as has been possible.”
The King Valley, on the other hand, was founded by Italian emigres, often from the north of the country, rather than the diaspora of the south that ventured to many larger cities of the New World. Local names such as Dal Zotto came from Valdobbiadene in the Prosecco district of Veneto, for example, while the Pizzini family hail from the alpine reaches of Trento. It is easy to see the resemblance to their homeland.
Before wine, the welfare of many of these King Valley families was dependent on tobacco, at least until the industry became virtually untenable by the late 1970s. The more savvy among them turned their home wine production into bona fide commercial enterprises, inspired by the success of the large Brown Brothers operation and its experimental nursery.
I can still recall intriguing wine styles from Brown Brothers when I first began working with wine in the late 1990s. As the King Valley’s reputation grew, others followed, inspired by the zeitgeist of cooler-climate wines, Italian heritage and goodwill. Even today, many of the region’s wineries are converted tobacco drying and storage sheds, replete with Italian restaurants serving hearty fare and local wines hewn of one of “the greatest concentration of varieties of any Australian wine region,” according to Wine Australia. These include Italian varieties sangiovese, barbera, verduzzo, arneis, oceans of Prosecco and best of all, nebbiolo.
Reflecting on my recent tasting, nebbiolo may well be the tie that binds Beechworth and the King Valley despite their disparate histories and geologies. While this this is merely a personal observation, the energy being invested into crafting seriously high-quality expressions is effusive and contagious, especially from the likes of Domenica, Sentio, Traviarti, Castagna and Schmolzer & Brown in Beechworth, alongside Pizzini in the King Valley, who prize long aging regimes, serving to express nebbiolo’s carnal underbelly.
I particularly enjoyed the refined Pizzini Nebbiolo King Valley l’Aquila 2019, while Domenica’s expression is the most detailed and filigreed with a pinotesque elegance and crunchy red fruit. Sentio’s is a little more generous with no paucity of the structural latticework-high toned acidity and spindly tannins intrinsic to the best iterations.
Meanwhile, Castagna, an evergreen biodynamic property overseen by the indomitable Julian Castagna and his ebullient son, Adam, is responsible for a wilder interpretation packed with dark and red fruits, earthenware and a jolt of volatility for perk. Julian Castagna calls it “that noble Italian bitterness, or ‘amar.’”
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All of these wines were from 2021, a coolish attenuated vintage, with the exception of Traviarti’s more rugged 2022 – a vintage of peripatetic temperature shifts, according to Keppell Smith of Savaterre, a producer of exquisite chardonnay, perhaps the grape that increasingly defines Beechworth at the pointy end. Indeed, his brilliant 2022 was among my highest-rated wines of the tasting, rivaled by Domenica, Traviarti and Fighting Gully Road, all 2022.
Beechworth is also a bastion of high-quality syrah, capable of parrying with the world’s very finest. The firmament of Castagna and Giaconda is joined by relative newcomer Weathercraft. Psychosomatic, perhaps, but the Spanish heritage of Weathercraft winemaker Raquel Jones seems to manifest as a certain polish to the style, not dissimilar to top Spanish reds. Her wines are defined by immaculate tannin management and precision. Sure, the warmer site delivers a bit more muscle than its peers, yet while there is density, there is also flare and freshness, deserved of time in the cellar for the discerning buyer.
These regions in northeastern Victoria are a relatively short, scenic drive from Melbourne. The bounty of exceptional food and wine is tempting for any visitor, but most of all for those who appreciate esprit, beauty and the superlative quality of their best wines.
– Ned Goodwin MW, Senior Editor
Note: You can sort the wines below by vintage, score and alphabetically by winery name. You can also search for specific wines in the search bar.
Tasting Notes
Castagna Beechworth Aqua Senta |
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Domenica Shiraz Beechworth Estate 2022 |
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Castagna Viognier Beechworth Ingenue 2022 |
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Fighting Gully Road Chardonnay Beechworth Smith's Vineyard 2021 |
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Fighting Gully Road Gros Manseng Beechworth Moelleux 2021 |
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Savaterre Chardonnay Beechworth 2022 |
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Traviarti Chardonnay Beechworth 2023 |
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Weathercraft Wine Syrah Beechworth Reserve 2021 |
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A. Rodda Chardonnay Beechworth Triangle Block Smith's Vineyard 2021 |
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Castagna Chenin Blanc Beechworth 2021 |
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Castagna Roussanne Beechworth Growers' Selection 2019 |
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Castagna Roussanne Beechworth Growers' Selection 2021 |
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Domenica Chardonnay Beechworth 2023 |
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Domenica Nebbiolo Beechworth 2021 |
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Piano Piano Chardonnay Beechworth Sophie's Block 2022 |
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Pizzini Nebbiolo King Valley L'Aquila 2019 |
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Savaterre Syrah Beechworth 2021 |
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A. Rodda Chardonnay Beechworth Smith's Vineyard 2022 |
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Castagna Beechworth Barbarosssa 2021 |
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John Gehrig Riesling King Valley RG 2018 |
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Savaterre Chardonnay Beechworth Frère Cadet 2022 |
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Schmölzer & Brown Syrah Beechworth Thorley 2021 |
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Sentio Nebbiolo Beechworth 2021 |
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Serengale Merlot Cabernet Beechworth 2019 |
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A. Rodda Beechworth Cabernets Tête de Cuvée Smith's Vineyard 2019 |
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Brokenwood Shiraz Beechworth Indigo Vineyard 2022 |
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Castagna Beechworth Allegro 2022 |
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Castagna Beechworth Allegro 2021 |
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Castagna Beechworth Sparkling Allegro Traditionelle 2017 |
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Davis Wines Savagnin King Valley Foreign Friends 2023 |
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Eldorado Road Shiraz Beechworth Persévérance Old Vine 2021 |
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Fighting Gully Road Cabernet Sauvignon Beechworth 2021 |
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Fighting Gully Road Sangiovese Beechworth La Longa 2019 |
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Indigo Vineyard Shiraz Beechworth Secret Village 2018 |
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John Gehrig Riesling King Valley RG 2013 |
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Little Frances Pinot Gris Beechworth 2023 |
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Piano Piano Shiraz Beechworth Henry's Block & Friends 2021 |
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Pizzini King Valley Il Barone 2022 |
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Pizzini Nebbiolo King Valley Coronamento 2019 |
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Pizzini Sangiovese King Valley Forza di Ferro 2021 |
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Pizzini Sangiovese King Valley Rubacuori 2018 |
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Schmölzer & Brown Nebbiolo Beechworth Thorley 2021 |
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Schmölzer & Brown Sylvaner King Valley Schatz 2023 |
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Sentio Chardonnay Beechworth 2022 |
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Sentio Chardonnay Beechworth Single Vineyard 2022 |
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Sentio King Valley Aligoté 2023 |
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Traviarti Nebbiolo Beechworth 2022 |
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Weathercraft Wine Chardonnay Beechworth Second Bottling 2021 |
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Willem Kurt Syrah Beechworth 2021 |
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A. Rodda Beechworth Cuvée de Chais 2022 |
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A. Rodda Tempranillo Beechworth Squila Audax Vineyard 2022 |
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Billy Button Manseng King Valley The Mixed Up 2021 |
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Billy Button Pecorino King Valley Not the Cheese 2023 |
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Brokenwood Pinot Noir Beechworth Indigo Vineyard 2023 |
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Castagna Beechworth Sparkling Allegro Ancestrale 2018 |
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Davis Wines Barbera King Valley Foreign Friends 2023 |
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Domenica Nebbiolo Beechworth Rosé 2023 |
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Eldorado Road Viognier Marsanne Beechworth Wallflower 2023 |
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Fighting Gully Road Beechworth Rosé 2023 |
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Fighting Gully Road Chardonnay Beechworth 2022 |
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Indigo Vineyard Roussanne Beechworth Secret Village 2022 |
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La Cantina Sangiovese King Valley Col Fondo 2023 |
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Little Frances Chardonnay Beechworth 2023 |
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Little Frances Shiraz Beechworth 2022 |
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Pizzini Arneis King Valley 2023 |
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Pizzini Nebbiolo King Valley La Volpe 2022 |
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Pizzini Pinot Grigio King Valley Attento 2022 |
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Pizzini Sangiovese King Valley Pietra Rossa 2022 |
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Pizzini Verdicchio King Valley 2023 |
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Schmölzer & Brown Grauburgunder King Valley 2022 |
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Schmölzer & Brown Pinot Noir Beechworth Brunnen 2021 |
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Schmölzer & Brown Riesling King Valley Obstgarten 2022 |
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Serengale Chardonnay Beechworth Row 16 2019 |
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Traviarti Beechworth Rosso 2023 |
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Willem Kurt Chardonnay Beechworth 2022 |
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Billy Button Riesling King Valley The Torment 2023 |
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Castagna Chardonnay Beechworth 2022 |
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Castagna Chardonnay Beechworth Growers' Selection 2022 |
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Fighting Gully Road Grenache Beechworth 2022 |
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John Gehrig Riesling King Valley 2019 |
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Juliard Wines Beechworth GSM 2022 |
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La Cantina Nebbiolo King Valley 2022 |
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Pizzini Verduzzo King Valley 2023 |
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Schmölzer & Brown Barbera King Valley 2023 |
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Schmölzer & Brown Chardonnay Beechworth Brunnen 2021 |
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Schmölzer & Brown King Valley Prêt-à-Blanc 2023 |
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Sentio Gamay King Valley 2023 |
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Star Lane Merlot Beechworth 2019 |
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Brokenwood Sangiovese Beechworth 2023 |
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Eldorado Road Syrah Beechworth 2022 |
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Fighting Gully Road Pinot Noir Beechworth 2022 |
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La Cantina Pinot Grigio King Valley 2023 |
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La Cantina Saperavi King Valley 2022 |
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Little Frances Merlot Beechworth 2022 |
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Nomads Garden King Valley Baxendale Vineyard Skin Contact White 2023 |
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Pizzini Canaiolo King Valley 2022 |
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Pizzini Lambrusco Salamino King Valley 2022 |
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Pizzini Pinot Grigio King Valley 2023 |
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Pizzini Sangiovese King Valley Nonna Gisella 2022 |
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Serengale Shiraz Beechworth 2021 |
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Brokenwood Pinot Gris Beechworth 2023 |
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Indigo Vineyard Viognier Beechworth Secret Village 2022 |
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John Gehrig King Valley Elizabeth's Block 2017 |
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Serengale Chardonnay Beechworth 2021 |
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Star Lane Sangiovese Beechworth Amphora 2019 |
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Baarmutha Sangiovese Beechworth 2022 |
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Billy Button Alpine Valleys King Valley Bianco 2022 |
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Billy Button King Valley Alpine Valleys Rosso 2023 |
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Brokenwood Pinot Noir Beechworth 2023 |
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Darling Estate Aligoté King Valley 2022 |
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Darling Estate Pinot Blanc King Valley 2022 |
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Fighting Gully Road Verdicchio Beechworth 2022 |
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John Gehrig Pinot Meunier King Valley 2021 |
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La Cantina Barbera King Valley 2022 |
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Nomads Garden Pinot Blanc King Valley Mt Bellevue Vineyard 2023 |
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Nomads Garden Prosecco King Valley Milawa Vineyard 2023 |
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Pizzini Brachetto King Valley 2023 |
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Pizzini Riesling King Valley 2023 |
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Politini Pinot Grigio King Valley 2023 |
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Risky Business Pinot Gris King Valley 2023 |
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Star Lane Nebbiolo Beechworth Amphora 2019 |
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Baarmutha Chardonnay Beechworth 2022 |
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Billy Button Aglianico King Valley The Unexpected 2022 |
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Buller Wines Pinot Grigio King Valley The Nook 2022 |
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King River Estate Pinot Grigio King Valley Flying Duck 2023 |
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King River Estate Prosecco King Valley 2022 |
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La Cantina Sangiovese King Valley 2022 |
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Politini Vermentino King Valley 2019 |
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Darling Estate Nebbiolo King Valley 2011 |
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John Gehrig Gamay King Valley 2019 |
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La Cantina Chardonnay King Valley 2023 |
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La Cantina King Valley Rosato 2023 |
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King River Estate Chardonnay King Valley 2022 |
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King River Estate King Valley Flying Duck Rosé 2022 |
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King River Estate King Valley Front Block White 2023 |
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King River Estate Lagrein King Valley 2017 |
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Nomads Garden Pinot Meunier King Valley Evans Vineyard 2023 |
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Politini King Valley Rosato 2023 |
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Risky Business King Valley G-Luxe 2023 |
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Schmölzer & Brown Chardonnay Beechworth Thorley 2021 |
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Bowman's Run Riesling Beechworth Seven Springs 2022 |
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Buller Wines Chardonnay King Valley The Nook 2023 |
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Darling Estate Nebbiolo King Valley Koombahla 2004 |
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King River Estate Barbera King Valley 2018 |
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King River Estate Sagrantino King Valley 2021 |
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King River Estate Shiraz King Valley Flying Duck 2021 |
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King River Estate Saperavi King Valley 2017 |
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Politini Cabernet Sauvignon King Valley 2021 |
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Politini Nero d’Avola King Valley 2017 |
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