The mojo of any great wine region is reliant on many things, but to remain at the top of its game, every great wine region needs their iconic producers to perform.

And in the case of Coonawarra, that famous cabernet sauvignon-producing region tucked down in the southeast corner of South Australia, Wynns is the winery that carries much of the region’s reputation, its hopes and aspirations. And it not only needs to perform, it needs to simultaneously be guardian of history and leader into the future.

But the act of evolution, in particular when that means balancing significant history with the need for innovation, can be a tricky one. Wynns’ resources are vast and provide much in the way of opportunity, but every decision is going to be inked into the history books and closely studied long after it was made.

Chief winemaker, the humble and dedicated Sue Hodder, speaks of the trepidation and careful decision making that went into the first release of the Wynns’ Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (the 2001 Harold Vineyard Cabernet, released in 2004) with the combined weight of historical context and the studious gaze of future generations on her shoulders.

Wynns’ history is often talked about but that’s because here, as both the oldest and the largest winery in the region, it is genuinely important. The location of the famous and historic triple-gabled winery is the map pin for Coonawarra, and their vineyard holdings have been built across many decades. They know where the best dirt is and have had the time to get to know every inch of their famous 600,000-year-old terroir.

The release of this year’s duo of 2010 vintage Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon wines marks the tenth anniversary of these releases and the complete set made for a fascinating tasting. The diversity and pedigree of the vineyards chosen is clear and seeing some vineyards repeated across the 10 years underpins the distinctive character in compelling detail.

But the strongest message here is that of vintage character and seeing the way in which certain vineyards are favored in certain vintages, in some cases repeatedly. It’s a real reminder that, for Coonawarra, the intricate differences in soil structure from vineyard to vineyard and even within a single plot, makes for a profound statement of terroir.

Click for the notes and scores.

Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.

Nick's Article: A Decade of Wynns’ Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons