Amarone is an Italian wine that never lacks identity. In fact, it is one of the most unique styles of wine, hardly vinified anywhere. It’s made near the beautiful city of Verona, in the region of Valpolicella, where grapes are dehydrated after harvest and then slowly fermented to a wine that is known for its intensity and richness with a slightly bittersweet finish.
We have noted in recent vintages that these wines have moved away from the heavy jammy style of recent to a more refined and terroir-driven style, harking back to the more classic wines of the 1980s and earlier.
The uniqueness of Amarone della Valpolicella not only lies in its appassimento winemaking method, which may have been created from a happy accident of over-fermenting the sweet Recioto della Valpolicella to dryness, but also the predominant use of local grapes: corvina, corvione, rondinella, oseleta and the lesser molinara. Corvina or corvione is usually the most revered of these varieties, with acidity and a fleshy roundness that is much appreciated in the blend that otherwise is characterised by a brooding background of sour cherries and kirsch notes.
Whether it’s a monolithic Amarone destined for long-term aging or a more approachable one that is immediately drinkable with food, one thing is clear: these are great wines made in various styles. They are rich and have immense depth, with a freshness that penetrates through the ripe flavors without setting your throat on fire with its high alcohol.
So Amarone is a wine to drink with a lot of contemplation. And it is rarely cheap. The cost of the winemaking is high, as half of the grape volume disappears as grapes shrivel, which means more grapes are needed for each bottle of Amarone than other dry red. But the price for an outstanding Amarone does not have to be exorbitant. We found a wealth of great choices at less than US$65, especially among the recently released and hugely exciting 2015 vintage (following the wet and difficult 2014), making them irresistible must-buys.
Below are eight wines we selected that wowed us for their quality-price ratio. Cut some well-aged Parmesan cheese with nuts and dried figs, pour a big glass and enjoy them on a cold night. And if you’re confined to your home like I am, there’s no better pick-me-up than a glass of Amarone. Scroll down for the full tasting notes and scores (subscribers only).
Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Costasera 2015
Available at Wine.com and Wegmans.com
Domìni Veneti Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015
Available at KLWines.com
Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015
Available at Wine.com and Wegmans.com
Brunelli Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015
Giuseppe Campagnola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015
Buglioni Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Il Lussurioso 2015
Zeni Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2015
Pieropan Amarone della Valpolicella 2015
– Zekun Shuai, associate editor in Beijing
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