2020 JS百大榜单

这一年对我们所有人来说都是艰难的一年,但是一杯优质的葡萄酒肯定有助于我们度过这段疯狂的日子JamesSuckling.com今年也尽最大努力报道葡萄酒,我们找到了一些惊人的美酒。自2019年11月发布上的2019百大葡萄酒排行榜以来,我们对近18000款葡萄酒进行了品评。

在过去12个月的大部分时间里,我一直在我夫人在香港的葡萄酒餐吧James Suckling Wine Central的办公室里品鉴葡萄酒,执行编辑Nick Stock在澳大利亚阿德莱德品酒、特约编辑Stuart Pigott主要负责了德国,另外一些品酒笔记和报告来自我们北京的编辑帅泽堃(Zekun Shuai)。与我们过去每年在世界各地葡萄酒产区参观、给葡萄酒打分并与酿酒师交谈不同,这无疑是一种新的写作和报道方式。

疫情之下,我也有更多的时间在香港的家里与我在香港的团队和我的爱人为香港,这个世界上最有活力的葡萄酒枢纽做些贡献。我也很喜欢在James Suckling Wine Central与大家交谈,无论是在我们的一个大师班上,还是在酒吧里。这让我对人们的喜好和如何饮用葡萄酒有了更深的认识。这听起来似乎是自明之理,但有时葡萄酒评论者却容易忘记他们受众是谁。在我看来,了解读者是很重要的,这些符合我的职业背景,我也把我们读者数量的显著增加归因于此。

我也很享受通过Zoom和其他渠道与酿酒师和关注我们的朋友进行交流,这给了我们所有人一个更开放、更高效的方式去分享葡萄酒。JamesSuckling.com网站的订阅量今年几乎翻了一番,Instagram更是增加了69%。这种线上模式肯定会持续。事实上,我认为疫情也改变了大家分享葡萄酒的方式,今后也许将是线下和远程线上的结合,这其实也使学习和喝酒比以前更便捷、更容易。

James 和 Chacra酒庄庄主Piero Incisa della Rocchetta 一起品酒。他的葡萄园在Patagonia(左), 他们今年酿出了一款满分老藤黑皮诺,并得到百大榜单第一名

从我们每年品尝的葡萄酒中选出100款作为百大榜单从来就不是容易的事情。今年,我们也见证了不少美酒的高光时刻和新年份发布,包括我们2019年波尔多报告、2019年德国葡萄酒报告、2018年澳大利亚葡萄酒报告、2016年和2015年Riserva Brunello di Montalcino以及2016年Barolo,更不用说阿根廷和智利的2017年、2018年和2019年。美国也有一些非常优秀的葡萄酒,但由于2017年的困难,数量并不太多,好在经典的2018即将发布。与此同时,新西兰、西班牙、法国、葡萄牙等地继续酿造着优质葡萄酒。

我们只希望我们有更多的时间来给更多的美酒评分。对于葡萄酒爱好者来说,如今的葡萄酒世界正处于一个黄金年代!我们将继续努力去覆盖更多产区和美酒,我也组建了一支优秀的品酒团队,尤其是年轻的酒评人。

今年,我们的百大榜单试图将更多的注意力放在高分葡萄酒的性价比身上。我们都知道,不少葡萄酒的价格在不断上涨,而现在大家却格外需要注意自己的腰包。榜单中,我们也尽量将产量限定在至少500箱或6000瓶以上,这就意味着一些质量极高但产量太低的酒款无法进入这份榜单。同时,我们没有包含尚未装瓶的桶中样品,这也是为什么我们没有包括2019年波尔多葡萄酒的原因。百大榜单只收录了评分为98分及以上的葡萄酒,这些酒在18000款葡萄酒中占到350款。在过去的12个月里,我们给了53款葡萄酒予以100分满分。

价格是前100名中的重要因素,尤其是前10名。排名前十的葡萄酒每瓶国际均价均低于100美元。不过,个别酒刚开始发售的确是这个价格,但目前零售价已经大幅增涨。与之前一样,榜单也考虑到我们所说的“惊喜因素”(Wow factor)。这是当你品尝葡萄酒时可能给你的那种冲动与喜爱之情,比如某款酒让我们十分惊喜、眼前一亮。

意大利是今年百大葡萄酒中数量最多的,共21款,其次是澳大利亚的20款,德国17款,美国11款,法国11款,阿根廷9款,智利6款,奥地利3款,西班牙1款,葡萄牙1款。产区上看,Brunello di Montalcino葡萄酒在今年的百大中占比最多,共11款葡萄酒入选,其次是9款波尔多,以及8款门多萨、7款巴罗萨和6款来自纳帕的顶级佳酿。

然而,我们的2020年百大榜单第一名来自这个地球上一个与众不同的地方。不仅因为它是一款完美的100分葡萄酒,还因为它突出了如今在葡萄酒酿造中值得称赞的几个特点,特别是在气候变化和经济动荡的当下:出色的性价比、环境上的可持续性,反映其风土环境的特点以及令人难以置信的易饮性。来自阿根廷帕塔哥尼亚(Patagonia)的Chacra Pinot Noir Patagonia Treinta y Dos 2018涵盖了所有这些要素,这就是为什么它是我们2020年“年度葡萄酒”的原因。

不过,这款老藤黑皮诺的产量只有区区600多箱,来自1932年(Treinta y Dos:西班牙语“三十二”)种植的7.5亩的葡萄藤,皆为生物动力法栽培管理。这款酒在一个朴素但现代的酒庄里用混凝土发酵罐酿制,在用过的法国橡木桶中陈酿,在酿造时尽可能地降低硫化物的使用。2018年的售价目前超过90美元,但其最早发布时为每瓶40美元。我们知道这款2018年很难找到,其最近的年份,比如2017年和2016年的质量也非常接近。

Schloss Johannisberg漂亮的葡萄园。他们的2019 Grünlack得到今年百大第二名

我喜欢这款酒的结构和动感,单宁坚实细腻,酸度明亮,完美地勾勒出生动、纯净的果味,带有草莓、泥土和森林的气息。它在年轻时就非常美味,同时也具备适合陈年的结构和集中度。

早在2015年,我就曾到访Chacra,我仍然记得在葡萄园散步,和庄主Piero Incisa della Rocchetta一起待了几天,他恰好也是意大利著名的Tenuta San Guido(Sassicaia/西施嘉雅)的主要股东。Chacra酒庄不是一个容易到达的地方。从布宜诺斯艾利斯到纽肯(Neuquen)三个小时的航班后,还得从那里开几个小时的车。它好比是农业时代的一部分,在沙漠环境下,破旧的城市和尘土飞扬的城镇若隐若现。Chacra拥有75亩的葡萄园,主要是黑比诺和少量的霞多丽,质朴而诚实。你可以感受到这里的能量和生态,动植物之间十分和谐。Incisa della Rocchetta也对当地的动植物十分感兴趣,他甚至养殖大量的蜜蜂,并用蜂蜡来包装每一瓶Chacra Pinot Noir Treinta y Dos。

今年早些时候,当我给他的Chacra Pinot Noir Patagonia Treinta y Dos 2018打了100分后,他给我写了一封电子邮件,我认为这突出了他在Chacra的理念,他写道:“支持有机和生物动力农业很重要,同时我们也要对可持续农业负责任。不幸的是,我们的行业和媒体对化学药剂和对自然的破坏常常置若罔闻。好在,你们的工作,无论过去还是现在,都是具有进步意义和前瞻性的。”

执行编辑Nick Stock在巴罗萨谷的Hutton Vale品酒, 这里的葡萄酒充满个性

我感谢他对我和我团队工作的积极评价,但真正值得称赞的是Incisa della Rocchetta和他的团队。我感谢他们酿造了一款完美的葡萄酒,更是我们2020年的年度葡萄酒。 

我也非常欣赏百大排名第二的葡萄酒,以及其他三款来自德国的葡萄酒,分别是Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Rheingau Grünlack Spätlese 2019 (第二), Wittmann Riesling Rheinhessen Morstein GG 2019 (第六) 以及Dönnhoff Riesling Nahe Dellchen GG 2019 (第七)。2019年份是现代德国葡萄酒的标杆年份,这三款完美的葡萄酒可以列入有史以来最好的葡萄酒。其中,第二名Schloss Johannisberg更是在很多人看来雷司令的摇篮,更是甜型雷司令的发源地,可以追溯到18世纪70年代中期。

这款100分的Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Rheingau Grünlack Spätlese 2019是这一风格的丰碑之作,也让人想起了德国甜酒的伟大历史。我们(主要是Stuart Pigott)今年品尝了近1200款德国葡萄酒,其中18款获得了100分的满分,这证明了2019年份葡萄酒的伟大。记得入手!

Stuart在9月份的报告中写道:“2019年份是我四十年职业生涯中品尝过德国雷司令的最佳年份。和James一样,我的葡萄酒评论家生涯始于20世纪80年代初,我品尝到的第一个德国葡萄酒年份是1983年,直到现在,只有2019年的葡萄酒让我一下子唤起之前的美好记忆,从干型葡萄酒到经典的甜白葡萄酒。这意味着2019年是现代最伟大的年份之一,也许将在未来几十年被几代人铭记。”

Stuart Pigott与Dr. Loosen的Ernst Loosen品酒,他们目前拥有11款GG干型葡萄酒

前十中也包含两款Brunello: Livio Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino 2016(第三名)和Tassi Brunello di Montalcino Franci Riserva 2015(第八名)。这两个年份的葡萄酒风格迥异。2015年由于略为温暖的生长季节,酿造出了更加华丽和丰富的Brunello葡萄酒,而2016年得益于从稍长和稍冷的生长季使葡萄酒的单宁更加庞大。这两种酒都是任何喜欢意大利葡萄酒爱好者的酒窖必备,也是Brunello di Montalcino迄今为止最好的葡萄酒之一。

澳大利亚一直也是JamesSuckling.com重点报道的产区之一。我们今年对3264款澳大利亚葡萄酒评分。执行编辑Nick Stock自3月份以来一直在澳大利亚,他也一直专注于他本国的葡萄酒。对我们来说,今年最值得兴奋的是澳洲酒是排在榜单第四的The Standish Wine Company Shiraz Barossa Valley The Schubert Theorem 2018,一款100分红葡萄酒,展示了澳大利亚葡萄酒的特点,尤其是巴罗萨2018年年份葡萄酒的卓越品质。

对于巴罗莎,Nick几个月前指出:“2018年的葡萄酒已经证明是优质葡萄酒的来源,包括西拉、歌海娜和赤霞珠等众多品种,以及更为成熟的葡萄。对白葡萄酒来说,伊甸谷的雷司令是亮点,这是一个集中、精致而新鲜的年份。”此外,他也对这个年份的玛格丽特河和猎人谷的美酒赞赏有加。

Fabio Tassi 2019年夏天在酒庄. 他的 Tassi Brunello di Montalcino Franci Riserva 2015 得到今年百大第8名.

当Stuart和我品尝了774种奥地利葡萄酒后,我们很难下定论。2019年和2018年是稳定的年份,但是我们发现酒精整体有所上升,似乎绿维林(gruner veltliner)正在失去其魔力。尽管如此,奥地利葡萄酒专家Emmerich Knoll还是酿造了为数不多的满分酒之一——Emmerich Knoll Riesling Wachau Ried Schütt Smaragd 2019,这也是我们将其列为第五位的原因。

另外两款来自安第斯山脉的葡萄酒在今年的百强排行榜中名列前十: Cheval des Andes Mendoza 2017(第九名)和Clos Apalta Valle de Apalta 2017(第十名),二者也是我们近年来百大榜单的常客。这两款葡萄酒都是各自国家当前优质葡萄酒的绝佳典范,突出了2017年这个较为炎热年份葡萄酒的平衡、美感和集中度。另外,2017年的Clos Apalta Valle de Apalta来自生物动力法种植的葡萄园,也是酒庄20周年的作品。

今年所有百大榜单中的葡萄酒都有值得一提的地方,理解它们最好的方式莫过于亲自品尝。我们在2020年发现了如此之多的优质美酒,这要感谢来自世界各地的酿酒师。我们知道,他们的葡萄酒正在世界上被懂得欣赏它们的人悉心品尝、欣赏。在这个充满不确定性的时刻,这让我们无比宽慰和心安。我们也希望大家一切安好,并充分利用这份2020年JS百大榜单。

– James Suckling, CEO & editor

Tasting Notes

1
Chacra Pinot Noir Patagonia Treinta y Dos 2018

Country Argentina
Region Patagonia
Vintage 2018
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2
Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Rheingau Grünlack Spätlese 2019

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2019
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3
Livio Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino 2016

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2016
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4
The Standish Wine Company Barossa Valley The Schubert Theorem 2018

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2018
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5
Emmerich Knoll Riesling Wachau Ried Schütt Smaragd 2019

Country Austria
Region Danube
Vintage 2019
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6
Wittmann Riesling Rheinhessen Morstein GG 2019

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2019
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7
Dönnhoff Riesling Nahe Dellchen GG 2019

Country Germany
Region Nahe
Vintage 2019
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8
Tassi Brunello di Montalcino Franci Riserva 2015

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2015
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9
Cheval des Andes Mendoza 2017

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2017
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10
Clos Apalta Valle de Apalta 2017

Country Chile
Region Valle Central
Vintage 2017
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11
Catena Zapata Chardonnay Mendoza Adrianna Vineyard White Bones 2018

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2018
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12
Viña Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto 2018

Country Chile
Region Valle Central
Vintage 2018
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13
Seña Valle de Aconcagua 2018

Country Chile
Region Aconcagua
Vintage 2018
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14
Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona Brunello di Montalcino Vigna di Pianrosso Santa Caterina d'Oro Riserva 2015

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2015
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15
Giodo Brunello di Montalcino 2016

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2016
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16
Wendouree Shiraz Clare Valley 2018

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2018
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17
Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino PS Riserva 2015

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2015
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18
Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Madonna del Piano Riserva 2015

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2015
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19
Keller Riesling Rheinhessen Brunnenhäuschen Abts E GG 2019

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2019
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20
Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto 2015

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2015
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21
Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva 2016

Country Italy
Region Piedmont
Vintage 2016
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22
Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio 2016

Country Italy
Region Piedmont
Vintage 2016
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23
Peter Lehmann Riesling Eden Valley Wigan 2015

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2015
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24
Domaine Weinbach Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Ste. Catherine 2018

Country France
Region Alsace
Vintage 2018
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25
Cullen Margaret River Diana Madeline 2018

Country Australia
Region Western Australia
Vintage 2018
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26
Mount Mary Yarra Valley Quintet 2018

Country Australia
Region Victoria
Vintage 2018
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27
Sami-Odi Shiraz Barossa Valley Hoffmann Dallwitz 2018

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2018
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28
Cobos Malbec Mendoza 2017

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2017
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29
Jim Barry Shiraz Clare Valley The Armagh 2018

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2018
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30
Henschke Shiraz Eden Valley Hill of Grace Vineyard 2015

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2015
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31
Abreu Napa Valley Las Posadas 2017

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2017
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32
Yangarra Grenache McLaren Vale High Sands 2019

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2019
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33
F.X. Pichler Riesling Wacha Unendlich 2019

Country Austria
Region Danube
Vintage 2019
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34
Thörle Spätburgunder Rheinhessen Hölle 2018

Country Germany
Region Rheinhessen
Vintage 2018
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35
Peter Michael Winery Chardonnay Sonoma County Knights Valley Belle-Cote 2017

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2017
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36
Parusso Barolo Bussia Riserva 2011

Country Italy
Region Piedmont
Vintage 2011
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37
El Enemigo Cabernet Franc Mendoza Gran Enemigo Chacayes Single Vineyard 2016

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2016
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38
Georg Breuer Riesling Rheingau Berg Schlossberg 2019

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2019
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39
Fürst Spätburgunder Franken Hundsrück GG 2018

Country Germany
Region Franken
Vintage 2018
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40
Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 2016

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2016
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41
Aubert Chardonnay Napa Valley Sugar Shack Estate Vineyard 2017

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2017
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42
San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere Riserva 2015

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2015
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43
Künstler Riesling Rheingau Kirchenstück GG 2019

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2019
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44
Christmann Riesling Pfalz Idig GG 2019

Country Germany
Region Pfalz
Vintage 2019
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45
Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina 2010

Country Italy
Region Piedmont
Vintage 2010
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46
Terrazas de los Andes Malbec Paraje Altamira Valle de Uco Los Castaños Parcel N 2W 2017

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2017
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47
Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello di Montalcino Rennina 2015

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2015
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48
Ökonomierat Rebholz Riesling Pfalz Kastanienbusch GG 2019

Country Germany
Region Pfalz
Vintage 2019
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49
Granja de Nuestra Señora de Remelluri Rioja Blanco 2017

Country Spain
Region La Rioja
Vintage 2017
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50
Eredi Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2015

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2015
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51
Susana Balbo Wines Malbec Valle de Uco Los Chacayes Nosotros Single Vineyard Nómade 2016

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2016
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52
Gaja Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo 2017

Country Italy
Region Piedmont
Vintage 2017
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53
Bibi Graetz Toscana Colore 2018

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2018
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54
Dana Estates Napa Valley Rutherford Helms Vineyard 2017

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2017
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55
Tolpuddle Chardonnay Tasmania 2019

Country Australia
Region Tasmania
Vintage 2019
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56
Henri Giraud Champagne Argonne Brut 2012

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage 2012
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57
Château d'Yquem Sauternes 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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58
Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Gold Cap 2018

Country Germany
Region Mosel
Vintage 2018
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59
Prinz Riesling Rheingau Jungfer GG 2019

Country Germany
Region Rheingau
Vintage 2019
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60
To Kalon Vineyard Co. Napa Valley Oakville Highest Beauty 2016

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2016
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61
Château Trotanoy Pomerol 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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62
Niepoort Douro Charme 2018

Country Portugal
Region Douro
Vintage 2018
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63
Bryant Family Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2017

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2017
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64
RAEN Pinot Noir Sonoma County Sonoma Coast Freestone Occidental Bodega Vineyard 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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65
López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia White 2001

Country Spain
Region La Rioja
Vintage 2001
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66
Willi Schaefer Riesling Mosel Graacher Domprobst Spätlese 2019

Country Germany
Region Mosel
Vintage 2019
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67
Ochota Barrels Grenache McLaren Vale A Sense of Compression 2019

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2019
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68
Bindi Pinot Noir Macedon Ranges Original Vineyard 2019

Country Australia
Region Victoria
Vintage 2019
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69
Trapiche Chardonnay Gualtallary Valle de Uco Terroir Series Finca el Tomillo 2019

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2019
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70
Antica Terra Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Antikythera 2017

Country United States
Region Oregon
Vintage 2017
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71
Emiliana Valle de Colchagua Gê 2017

Country Chile
Region Valle Central
Vintage 2017
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72
Deep Woods Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River Reserve 2017

Country Australia
Region Western Australia
Vintage 2017
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73
Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Blanc 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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74
Errázuriz Chardonnay Aconcagua Costa Las Pizarras 2019

Country Chile
Region Aconcagua
Vintage 2019
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75
K Vintners Syrah Wahluke Slope The Hidden 2017

Country United States
Region Washington
Vintage 2017
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76
Château Rieussec Sauternes 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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77
Château Cos d'Estournel St.-Estèphe 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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78
Yalumba Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz Coonawarra Barossa The Caley 2016

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2016
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79
Château Margaux Margaux 2017

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2017
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80
Hyde de Villaine Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros Hyde Vineyard Comandante 2018

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2018
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81
Clarendon Hills Syrah McLaren Vale Astralis 2016

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2016
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82
Montes Carmenere Petit Verdot Valle de Colchagua Purple Angel 2017

Country Chile
Region Valle Central
Vintage 2017
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83
Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino 2018

Country Italy
Region Sicily
Vintage 2018
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84
Moric Blaufränkisch Burgenland Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben 2017

Country Austria
Region Burgenland
Vintage 2017
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85
Petrolo Valdarno di Sopra Galatrona 2018

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2018
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86
Bernhard Huber Spätburgunder Baden Schlossberg GG 2018

Country Germany
Region Baden
Vintage 2018
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87
Alta Vista Mendoza Alto 2015

Country Argentina
Region Mendoza
Vintage 2015
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88
Giaconda Chardonnay Beechworth Estate Vineyard 2018

Country Australia
Region Victoria
Vintage 2018
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89
Vieux Château Certan Pomerol 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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90
Torbreck Shiraz Barossa Valley The Laird 2015

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2015
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91
Dr. Wehrheim Weissburgunder Pfalz Mandelberg GG 2019

Country Germany
Region Pfalz
Vintage 2019
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92
Spinifex Shiraz Eden Valley Rostein 2018

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2018
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93
Müller-Catoir Muskateller Pfalz Bürgergarten EL 2019

Country Germany
Region Pfalz
Vintage 2019
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94
First Drop Shiraz Barossa Valley The Cream 2018

Country Australia
Region South Australia
Vintage 2018
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95
Tua Rita Toscana Redigaffi 2018

Country Italy
Region Tuscany
Vintage 2018
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96
Friedrich Becker Spätburgunder Pfalz Heydenreich GG 2017

Country Germany
Region Pfalz
Vintage 2017
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97
Château Léoville Las Cases St.-Julien 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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98
Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Yountville Sleeping Lady Vineyard 2016

Country United States
Region California
Vintage 2016
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99
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou St.-Julien 2017

Country France
Region Bordeaux
Vintage 2017
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100
Dom Pérignon Champagne 2010

Country France
Region Champagne
Vintage 2010
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