With consumer confidence in Bordeaux shaken after years of high prices and poor vintages, unsurprisingly many chateaux are quick to come forward about the quality of 2014. Most are convinced that the new vintage is, at least, a good one, even if it by no means finds itself on the same level as 2009 or 2010.
Château d’Issan (photo credit: Unozoe)
According to Château d’Issan’s Sales and Communication Director Augustin Lacaille, this new vintage from the Margaux winery, a blend of 77% cabernet sauvignon and 23% merlot, is “harmonious, complete and complex”. Click here for James’ full tasting note and score. Lacaille also argues that the en primeur system is still the best way to match local supply to world demand. “The eternal freshness and longevity of Bordeaux wines allow the en primeur system to sustain itself, and this will guarantee a solid future,” he maintains.
Read our interview below with Lacaille to get some ideas of how the growing season played to the advantage for the Left Bank as well as more of his comments on d’Issan’s 2014 vintage.
1. What do you think of the 2014 vintage overall?
Augustin Lacaille: The 2014 vintage is an excellent surprise. After the months of July and August, we were all expecting and waiting for a long Indian Summer. And it is exactly what Mother Nature offered to us.
2. Is the 2014 vintage better for reds or whites in your opinion? Is the 2014 vintage better for certain grape varieties?
AL: 2014 is a wonderful vintage for the Médoc region. At Château d’Issan, we have historically planted only the two main grape varieties grown in the region – namely cabernet sauvignon and merlot. The excellent surprise of the Indian summer allowed both of our grape varieties to achieve progressive and optimal ripeness. Both of them express their authentic character and complex aromas. But for the 2014 vintage, cabernet sauvignon is still the king in our vineyard, and our final blend of 77% cabernet sauvignon and 23% merlot reflects this.
3. What were the growing and harvesting seasons like?
AL: Thanks to perfect growing conditions during the month of June, both the merlot and cabernet sauvignon vines flowered at the same time – around June 25 with no gap in between. The summer was cool and humid, bringing mid-véraison around August 8. But from August 21 until the end of November, we enjoyed a long Indian summer with continuous warm and dry weather. This ideal, almost summer-like autumn allowed us to proceed with a serene harvest. We harvested the merlot 100% by hand from September 25 until October 3, and the cabernet sauvignon from October 6 till 15. The splendid weather permitted rigorous plot-by-plot selection. The harvested berries were plump and juicy with generously fruity yet silky and elegant tannins.
5. How are the wines tasting now, and how do you expect them to improve? What are your thoughts specifically on the 2014 d’Issan and Margaux?
AL: Our 2014 vintage is a complete and authentic Château d’Issan. We have historically made the choice to maintain the same vineyard size since the famous 1855 Classification in order to achieve our real terroir expression every year (45 hectares in Margaux). Our loyal consumers will again recognize the personality and the soul of our wine in the 2014 vintage. As usual, our “haute-couture” vinification process is designed to respect the lively character and structure of our selected fruits. 2014 is the kind of vintage that we typically like in Bordeaux: healthy and precise fruit, optimal maturity and perfect balance. It is harmonious, complete and complex.
7. Which previous vintage would you compare to 2014 and why?
AL: Château d’Issan 2014 is unique and cannot be compared to other vintages due to the unique growing conditions, although its singular terroir remains clearly identifiable.
8. How do you expect prices will be affected in the 2014 vintage for Bordeaux?
AL: Let’s wait for the precious feedback from our negociants and distributing partners from all around the world after tasting Château d’Issan 2014 during en primeur.
9. Do you believe the futures system of early buying and selling has a future in Bordeaux?
AL: Of course. The en primeur system has a long history and is a unique one related to the famous rule where local supply meets worldwide demand. Our goal is to produce the best wine from our vineyard by respecting the identity of our terroir and adapting continuously to the vintage conditions. Every vintage is an exciting new challenge. Each of them is unique and often offers beautiful surprises with age. This is the magic of Bordeaux wines. The eternal freshness and longevity of Bordeaux wines allow the en primeur system to sustain itself, and this will guarantee a solid future.
– Natalie Wang
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