*This Brunello report was updated on April 20, 2018, with the addition of around 20 more wines that we tasted from the region this spring.
The 2012 vintage may be one of the first vintages in a long time for Brunello di Montalcino when the riserva designation really counted. At least that’s my impression after tasting about 70 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riservas earlier this year.
The designation is supposed to specially classify Brunellos that deserve an extra year of aging before being released on the market; however, many times it seems to be about the same quality as the normal bottlings with a few exceptions. Happily, this doesn’t seem to be the case for a large number of riservas in 2012 that I tasted. And I recommend buying the top-rated ones.
Located on the east side of Montalcino, Casanova di Neri winery has produced some radiant 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riservas.
“We really focused on the quality this year with our riserva,” admits Paolo Bianchini, one of the owners of Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona. “With the extra aging in wood as well as bottle, the wines had more time to come to perfection.”
What strikes me the most about many of the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riservas is that they have a fresher, slightly less ripe character than the normal bottlings. This makes them slightly more attractive than the more flamboyant and riper style of so many of the 2012s, which came from a hot, dry and sunny vintage overall.
“The extra refinement in the aging certainly added to the overall excellence of the wines,” adds Guido Andretta of Vitanza.
A hilltop town in southwest Tuscany, Montalcino is equally alluring close up and from the top. Here’s a helicopter shot to prove it.
I also spoke to some wine producers who underlined how their understanding of dealing with hot and dry years helped them make more balanced wines in 2012. “We really came into our own with the riserva in 2012,” says Jens Schmidt of Rasina. “It was a fantastic vintage.”
Overall, out of the 66 riservas reviewed this year, 16 of them were rated more than 95 points on our JamesSuckling.com 100-point scale. They’re all really exciting and satisfying to taste. So, try some yourself and see what I mean. — CEO/Editor James Suckling
Could not agree with you more.The Fuligni '12 Ris. is outstanding.
Tony Wood