My Article: Perfect Wines in a Perfect Vintage?

The 2009 vintage in Bordeaux is the vintage of my career. The reds have such glorious harmony and balance even though they are some of the richest and most structured ever. When I think of this modern wonder, I compare 2009 to such great years as 1982, 1989, 1990, 2000, and 2005. But I think it is better.

“We have never had something like 2009,” said Pierre Lurton, the head of Cheval Blanc and d’Yquem.  “We have never had more tannin in a wine than 2009, yet it is reserved and refined.”

Another winemaker explained to me how 2009 is a vintage of extreme wines, yet their high intensity of fruit, tannins, alcohol, and acidity balance one another – like a perfect circle.

This unique character or style in the 2009 reds, of course, can mostly be attributed to the exceptional growing period. Temperatures were hot but not too hot in the summer. It was dry but not too dry. And it was cool at night. This maintained acidity in the grapes. There were even light rains on September 15 that rejuvenated the vines just before picking.

“Everything was right in 2009,” said Alexander Thienpont, the winemaker and part owner of Pomerol’s Vieux Château Certan (in photo in his cellar with me.) I scored his wine 100 points – a perfect example of a perfect vintage. “Everything was excellent in 2009 from the Merlot to the Cabernet Franc to the Cabernet Sauvignon.”

I have other perfect wines in my report on the 2009 vintage. I tasted close to 400 wines during a weeklong trip to Bordeaux during the third week of January. In fact, I rated nine wines in total 100 points.

The notes will begin to be released during the third week of February. Until then, do you have any ideas of what my perfect wines may be?