I drank a bottle of 2008 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Guardiola from Sicily’s growing region of Etna a few nights ago at Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles. I am a huge fan of the Sicilian wine producing area, where many of the vines of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Capuccio grow on the hillside of the quiet giant volcano.

I have visited the region a number of times. Marco de Grazia, the Florentine-based fine wine exporter, owns and makes the wine of Terre Nere, which I think are the best of the area. Check out a small tasting report I did on the region a few months back if you are a subscriber.

In any case, I love the Burgundian-like structure to the Terre Nere reds with their firm tannins, fresh acidities, and delicate fruits. They can be slightly rustic, but they have an enchanting elegance. And they are such evocative wines if you are drinking one and you have been to the unique vine growing area of Etna. I always think of old head-pruned vines growing on the volcano when I drink one.

The 2008 Guardiola, one of a handful of vineyard-designated wines from Terre Nere, was balanced and beautiful with a strawberry and floral character with an underlying mineral and ash character. I scored it 91 points. Wonderful to drink now.

The red went incredibly well with our “designer pizzas” with toppings from white anchovy, tomato and chilies, to squash blossoms, tomato and burrata.

I may slightly prefer the newer 2009 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Guardiola, which I tasted in my office in Italy this summer. But both of the Guardiolas are beautiful wines. Drink some when you get the chance.