I have written about the 1998 La Mission since I first tasted it in barrel in spring 1999. It’s an amazing wine that shows classic Bordeaux style that is more and more difficult to find today. It shows superb strength and agility. It’s a near perfect wine.
It was strange today that I was already going to Haut-Brion to taste the 2013s of the Dillon family, who own La Mission as well as Haut-Brion. And the technical director of Haut-Brion and La Mission, Jean-Philippe Delmas, served the 1998 La Mission at a quick lunch. Delmas says that the 1998 bridges “old style Bordeaux with the new modern style.” And I think he is right.
Here is my tasting note.
1998 Château La Mission Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan: This is really classic in style with incredible depth and power. Muscular and amazing, it is full-bodied yet tight and agile. So complex. Shows iodine, oyster, stone and mint aromas and flavors. It’s rich and flavorful and at the same time fresh and racy. A modern classic. Drink or hold. Decant this one or two hours in advance. 99 points.
The wine was released on the market today with others such as 2004 Haut-Brion. It came directly from the cellars of the châteaux. It was the first time ever that old vintages were released again to the market from the owners. I don’t know the exact price but it should retail between $300 and $400 a bottle at US retail.
Delmas said he made the 1998 La Mission wine with his father, Jean, who was a legend for three decades in Bordeaux. “We made two truly great wines together, 1998 and 2000,” said Jean Philippe. “I think 1998 is our best ever together.”
