I had a midnight wine tasting last night with one of the members of the Orange County Food & Wine Society. It probably was not the best idea following a multi-course dinner at Marche Moderne in Costa Mesa, but great meals and great wines sometimes bring on such “inspirational wine tasting moments.” And my friend had spoken so highly about a wine in his cellar from a forgotten vintage of Bordeaux that we had to open it.

The wine was the 1979 Château Pichon-Longueville-Lalande. The 1979 vintage is a historical favorite of mine just because a number of pretty wines were made, such as Haut-Brion and Cos d’Estournel, and Bordeaux lovers completely forgot the year. Last night’s bottle was gorgeous still. It was so “clarety” as the British might say. It was fresh and crisp for a red with lots of character on the nose, from lead pencil to berries to spices. It was full-bodied still with firm tannins and a light, refined and delicate finish of currants, and hints of fresh herbs like lemon grass. I scored it 92 points. Find the wine.