If malbec is the signature red grape for Argentina, then torrontes must be a white specialty. You can even find torrontes-flavored sorbet in the town of Cafayate that tastes floral and fruity. There are three variants under the name torrontes and they share similarities to muscat of alexandria. Torrontes riojano is the most expressive and widely planted. It is a go-to variety if you enjoy dry whites with a full charge of aromatics ranging from peaches, ripe citrus, blossoms, fresh herbs to lychees and Asian spices. It is not unlike a gewurztraminer, but usually drier and fresher, or a viognier but often crisper and more lifted.
In our tasting trip to Argentina this year, I visited Salta and chased down several inspiring torrontes. The region offers ideal conditions for the variety, with a sunny, arid climate and high altitude providing intense flavor compounds and fresh acidity. The old vines with lower yields are especially off-the-chart, often delivering freshness and texture while withholding more subtle complexity and depth.
With its high-toned aromatics, some torrontes can be arguably a bit soapy if handled recklessly. Good producers often need to pick at the right time to keep the acidity high and pH level of the wine in check, so their torrontes stay elegantly perfumed.
Torrontes is quite underrated by wine merchants, mostly because it is not very well-known among consumers. Being catchy on the nose, it usually does not have a long shelf life. But this exotically pronounced dry white can offer excellent value and drinkability. To my palate, it is also a great companion to Thai food or Vietnamese cuisine.
Below we have selected a few $15 bottles that show great quality. We never expect torrontes to fetch $50 a bottle, but these wines are comparable in quality to wines that go for a much higher price tag. If you have a Thai green papaya salad for your starter, instead of always opting for viognier or sauvignon blanc, pour a full glass of well-chilled torrontes to make a difference!
Colomé Torrentes Salta Estate 2018 – JS92
Available at K&LWines ($11.99)
Zuccardi Torrontes Salta Serie A 2018 – JS92
(Average Price: $15)
Susana Balbo Wines Torrontés Argentina Crios 2018 – JS91
(Average Price: $12)
El Esteco Torrontés Valles Calchaquies Don David 2018 – JS91
(Average Price: $12)
Estancia Los Cardones Torrontes Cafayate Salta Anko 2018 – JS91
(Average Price: $15)
– Zekun Shuai, Associate Editor in Beijing
