$15 wines that taste like $50: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
This is part of an extensive program of content on Italian wines and culture over the summer of 2020 on JamesSuckling.com. Read this post to see more examples of the kinds of stories we will be posting over the next few weeks.
Montepulciano, the grape, (not be confused with the wine Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, made in Tuscany) is not often associated with high-caliber wines, though a few producers like Valentini and Emidio Pepe in Abruzzo make some stunning (and expensive) wines with it. This vigorous, workhorse variety is listed as one of the most planted in Italy, only behind sangiovese among the red grapes, showing how popular it is among growers and consumers. But the quality can be variable thanks to mass production in central Italy, mostly in Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which has tarnished its reputation.
Despite this image, montepulciano provides a wealth of choices at a $15 price tag. These are solid, rich, easy-to-like, and best of all wallet-friendly wines.
The grape certainly has some traits that make for good quality wines. It can render a medium-to-full-bodied wine with rich fruit, solid tannin structure and deeply saturated color thanks to its high anthocyanin content. This is why it is also made as a deeply-colored, full-bodied rosé – Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo (DOC) – and is often blended with sangiovese to beef up the pigment and give more flesh and generous flavors, while the sangiovese gives a drive of acidity and a smack of savoriness.
Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines often come from the cooler sites of Abruzzo and Marche, where the calcareous, limestone soil offers another boost for quality. At its best, it can deliver dense black fruit with brooding complexity, concentration, and seriousness, with balanced application of new oak. In Terre di Casauria DOC, one of the sub-zones of Montepuliciano d’Abruzzo, purer and brighter renditions of the grape (100 percent montepulciano is required here) with finesse and supple texture are produced, showing the sleek, elegant side of montepulciano. Terre dei Vestini DOC (another sub-zone), and the only DOCG so far, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teraman, are also worthy appellations to look for, though many believe the latter is too big and inclusive to offer top montepulcianos.
The following are seven bottles that represent the value possible from Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Torre dei Beati, Binomio, and Tiberio are other producers to look for if you’re willing to go a little above US$15. In Rosso Piceno Superiore of Marche, you’ll also find excellent examples of montepulcianos blended with sangiovese.
– Zekun Shuai, associate editor in Beijing
Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Gianni Masciarelli 2016 – JS93
International Price: $10
Umani Ronchi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Jorio 2017 – JS93
Available at Vivino: $16.99
Fattoria Nicodemi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane Le Murate 2017 – JS92
US Average Price: $12
Illuminati Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riparosso 2017 – JS92
Available at Vivino: $12.99
La Valentina Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2017 – JS92
Available at Wine.com: $13.99
Available at Vivino: $13.99
Barba Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Vignafranca 2015 – JS92
Available at Totalwine: $16.49
Available at Vivino: $15.98
Valle Reale Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Vigneto Sant’Eusanio 2017 – JS92
Available at Vivino: $21.99