The wine world is full of comparisons to get consumers to try something new. “If you like A, try B” is the standard invitation. So, for this report we are borrowing that template to say: “if you like Chablis, try godello.”

Godello is an unsung grape that is just starting to receive more exposure. It is understandable if you don’t drink a lot of it, if any at all. The 1970s and 1980s saw a resurgence of the variety among discerning producers, which saved it from the brink of extinction. And now, plantations have returned in the cooler areas of Spain, concentrated in the vineyards of Valdeorras, as well as in Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra and Monterrei. Unlike mencia, the old vines of godello are much rarer, even though the quality is already reassuring.

Godello is a versatile variety that is often shaped by both terroir and vintage and leaves the winemaker’s thumbprint on the wine. I find the variety is rich in flavors from lemon zest, green apples, quince, to a floral perfume and even reaches tropical notes in a warmer vintage. But good renditions manage to disguise this richness with a mineral sensibility, recalling a sense of the slate soils in Valdeorras. In a way, this subtlety resembles Muscadet and its “crystalline flavors,” which is why I think the comparison to Chablis is apt — a “sharpened” chardonnay with texture and roundness, especially when coming from a cooler vintage.

Godello also rewards winemaking effort. Like chardonnay, and to some extent albarino too, it is a malleable blank canvas onto which winemakers can splash their creativity. When this includes the length of lees contact and the frequency of batonnage (lee-stirring), which can enrich the mouthfeel and render more mid-palate creaminess and perhaps a hint of reductive character, the Spanish word “sobre lias” (on lees) may appear on the label as sign of quality.

As mencia epitomizes Spain’s freshness in red, godello expresses the same drinkable philosophy as a summer white through its zesty fruit and racy acidity. It’s a white I’d crave on a hot summer afternoon. While being highly drinkable and appetizing, godello also ages nicely and often outlives many white wines. You can expect at least five to eight years of life expectancy, and at a modest price.

See below our pick of eight bottles from the 2018 vintage that retail around $15. These provide an alternative to Chablis for your seafood.