Grenache (noir) is known for its ability to deliver fresh, drinkable red wine in warmer climates. It can be fragrant, pretty and fine-boned or deeply complex, layered and profoundly concentrated. And whether on its own or blended with companion grapes like syrah, carignan, mourvedre and cinsault, grenache is in vogue for winemakers working in warm, dry climates who seek to make wines of nuance, detail and precision.

Grenache is a variety that responds well to express the characteristics of terroir. While drinkability and elegance define the excellent, lighter styles with transparent, bright crimson hues and spicy red-berry fruit, old vines can deliver profound depth and concentration. Try some of the top offerings from southern France, Sardinia (where grenache is known as cannonau) and the homeland of the variety – Spain, in Rioja, Navarra and Campo de Borja, as well as in Priorato, where garnatxa (Catalan for grenache) often leads the blend.

In the new world, Australia offers incredible value, especially from low-yielding old grenache in South Australia, where vines like those owned by the Cirillo family date back to pre-phylloxera time. This island continent has many parcels of ancient vines, most concentrated in South Australia, that have managed to evade the devastating onslaught of phylloxera, many of which happen to be planted to grenache. Grenache loves sandy soil whereas phylloxera does not, so many old vines have survived and are now keenly sought after by savvy, grenache-focused winemakers.

Just as grenache could be thought of as a warm climate version of pinot noir, winemakers tend to become captivated by grenache in the same way that others are entranced by pinot. In South Australia, a new generation of wines is emerging via a band of talented winemakers who are seeking out the best sites and oldest vines. Many growers supply grapes to a number of winemakers, adopting the Burgundian model of vineyard as the hero.

Long under-appreciated and sitting in the shadow of shiraz, grenache is having a turn under the limelight. Today, we can savor some of the finest wines from these old vines in South Australia thanks to producers like Ochota Barrels, S.C.Pannell, Yangarra, Thistledown, Head Wines, Clarendon Hills, Aphelion, Wirra Wirra, d’Arenberg, Yalumba and Cirillo. The list goes on, so read Executive Editor Nick Stock’s report on Cirillo in 2017 featuring their ancestor grenache vines: ARE THE WORLD’S OLDEST GRENACHE VINES IN BAROSSA VALLEY?

Nick is currently tasting in South Australia’s McLaren Vale, widely acknowledged as the best region in Australia for grenache. There’s a new breed of grenache wines in the Vale that are shaping to be the stars of the coming tasting report. For now though, the following six bottles from Barossa and McLaren Vale deliver the kind of drinking pleasure that is comparable to a $50 wine, but cost just a third of that price.

Sealed fresh under screwcap, these grenaches can be easily enjoyed now or over the next decade. This kind of great-value Aussie grenache is not widely distributed, so they deserve to be more exposed to keen-eyed wine merchants and savvy consumers. Enjoy!

6 great value Australian grenache wines

Cirillo Grenache Barossa Valley Survivor Vine The Vincent 2018 – JS96
International Avg Price: $19

Spinifex Grenache Barossa Valley Garçon 2017 – JS94 
International Avg Price : $15

Yalumba Grenache Barossa Samuel’s Collection Bush Vine 2018 – JS93
Available on Wine.com: $18.99

Paxton Grenache McLaren Vale Thomas Block 2018 – JS92
International Avg Price: $15

Oliver’s Taranga Grenache McLaren Vale 2017 – JS92
International Avg Price: $16

Robert Oatley Grenache McLaren Vale G-18 2018 – JS91
Available on Wine.com: $19.99

– Zekun Shuai, associate editor in Beijing