It's the finale of our Chianti Classico Diaries. We've heard from so much from so many producers from all the nine comunes of the area: What makes their area unique, how this is reflected in their wines, why the consumer needs to understand this. Above all, we hope to have given JamesSuckling.com's readers the real insight into the beautiful diversity of Italy's most misunderstood region.
But how do we go forward? How can the wineries of Chianti Classico start explaining their territorial differences to the consumer at large, and leading them to a deeper appreciation of their wines? The commune leading the way is Panzano in Chianti. Ironically, it's not a comune at all but in fact a smaller division of a frazione or village. Here, wine producers have banded together and created their own association of 20 twenty wineries. As well as sharing their territorial peculiarities, they're unique in being almost exclusively an organic region, making them the first such area in Europe. All the wineries do events and promotions together, and perhaps most importantly write "Panzano in Chianti" on their labels.
We first meet Emilia d'Orsi from Fattoria Casaloste, one of the exceptional producers from Panzano. She feels that a typicity of grapes in particular is one of the tiny area's defining features. She explains that while each winery is of course independent, they are always delighted to work together as a group. Nevertheless, she remains concerned about Panzano managing to gain any recognition at large as a subregion.
The president of the association too, Valeria Viganò, would like to see the region gain more recognition. After explaining what the association is all about, she tells of her dreams where Panzano would be officially delineated as a sub-appellation or DOCG, but she remains concerned by the difficulties in legislation.
Of the many wine producers we interviewed, as you can see, almost all were in favour of a sub-appellation system by comune and smaller villages whereby each area could properly present itself to the consumer. Yet the problem was always the same, even for Panzano: The politics of the region won't allow it. It was time to confront the Consorzio, the governing body of Chianti Classico with binding authority over denominational matters.
Giovanni Manetti is better known for making one of the finest Chianti Classicos there is, Fontodi, in addition to his legendary Super Tuscan, Flaccianello. However, on the side he's also vice president of the Chianti Classico Consorzio. In fact, being in Panzano he was also president of the Panzano association before Valeria, and, not surprisingly, he's in favour of moving to comune sub-appellations within the larger region. He admits that within the Consorzio the idea is only in its early stages, but with a willingness in the currently administration, he is confident change is indeed on its way.
Finally, we spoke to Giuseppe Liberatore, Managing Director of the entire Consorzio. He was quick to concede that Chianti Classico is still ill-defined as a region, and that he too was well aware of a movement for subdivision. Once again, he offered his full support of the proposal, and guessed that within two years an official procedure could be set in motion.
What does all this mean? We at JamesSuckling.com, James included, feel ultimately this is all good news for consumers and producers alike. Of course, whether the Consorzio will actually take action in the near future remains to be seen, but at least as a Premium Subscriber toJamesSuckling.com we hope to have given you a unique insight into what promises to come.
This video was first posted on November 12th, 2013.
