The latest Zachys Auction is coming up this weekend in Hong Kong. The 70-year-old auction house of fine and rare wines has been showcasing their greatest wines at auctions for the past 20 years in the US and for almost a decade here in Hong Kong. More recently, they have included some of the greatest whiskies that Japan and Scotland have to offer and I have had the pleasure taking on the role as the Senior Whisky Advisor.
Toasting barrels for whisky maturation at Miyagikyo
Distillery, Nikka’s second distillery.
Being a specialist in Japanese Whisky first, I had the opportunity to work backwards, applying my knowledge in Japanese craftsmanship and geography to a greater understanding of Scotch and not the other way around.
Masataka Taketsuru is the man who initially began employment at Suntory but later left to start his own distillery in Hokkaido. Before his distillery could begin operation, his juice company, the Dai Nippon Kaju, was turned in to a distillery, which has come to be known by its acronym NIKKA.
Taketsuru gained his knowledge from studying at the University of Glasgow and working at Campbelltown before finding a wife and returning home.
Although it was Shinjiro Torii (the owner and namesake of the brand Suntory) who ultimately capitalized on Taketsuru’s first chance to make whisky, many regard Taketsuru as the true maker and godfather of Japanese whisky.
A recent TV drama aired in Japan that depicts the life and times of Taketsuru is definitely solidifying his position and the affirmation that Japanese whisky’s alma mater really is in Scotland.
Scotland boasts extreme diversity in their whiskies within a relatively small area. There is terroir to be tasted at every facet from the salty winds that cure casks as they age in Islay, to the unique mineral content of the water that flows in the river Spey.
In celebration of this revelation, please see a brief overview of Scotland’s main whisky regions.
Whiksy regions in Scotland
The Islands
The Islands are a cluster of land masses that lie as satellites to mainland Scotland. Many of them lie to the west as an archipelago known as the Hebrides. There are over 800 islands but only a few are inhabited, while fewer still have distillery. It’s on the islands of Arran, Mull, Jura, Skye, Lewis and Orkney (once the island with the northernmost distillery in the world) where you can find an array of whiskies from the delicate and fruity to powerful and peaty.
Islay
Lying to the south of the Islands region, Islay is known as “The Queen of the Hebrides” with its eight proud distilleries. It is here where you can find a great concentration of craft whisky distilleries and the best examples of smoky, peaty malts. Legendary Islay distilleries Aardbeg and Bowmore reside here and boast a rich history of 436 years of whisky distilling; this year 2015, Aardbeg (often reputed as the peatiest whisky in the world) celebrates 200 years of history.
It is here in Islay that the famous Port Ellen shut its doors in 1983. Port Ellen was the benchmark for smoky, peaty umami in a whisky. Founded in 1825, their golden era didn’t happen for over a century until 1967 when they had four stills in operation. Although the distillery has been closed, they do continue to malt barley, from which many of the Islay’s distilleries continue to purchase.
Highlands
The 30 distilleries of the Highlands are a tapestry of regionality and varied terrain that stretches inland at the center of Scotland all the way to the west coast. They embrace the sherry cask for ageing in their whisky production as they often go for a fresh, clean and grassy style of whisky. Although The Highlands is the largest region for Whisky production in Scotland, it only produces about a quarter of the nation’s whisky.
Distilleries like Glendronach are located in the Highlands at Aberdeenshire, not too far from the Queen’s summer home in Balmoral. They have been distilling there since 1826. There’s true artistry in that they even malt their own barley for production, a technique not often practiced any more by other distilleries.
Speyside
Although it was officially defined as a sub-region of the Highlands since it wraps itself around it on all sides besides the coastline, Speyside has its own unique terroir and, finally in 2009, came to be referred to as its own region under the Scotch Whisky Regulations. It’s here, at the northeastern side of Scotland that there’s the greatest concentration of whisky distilleries and it’s here where some of the most treasured drams come from. Famously telltale notes of creamy vanilla and honeycomb always come with complex fresh fruit that becomes dried, caramelized and oxidative with time in barrel.
Glen Grant, Glenfiddich and the Macallan all reside near the great River Spey that has become a mecca for some of the world’s great whiskies. Over the years as conglomerates take over and process becomes industrialized, the craftsmanship behind the bottle is quite simply not the same as it once was. The work of the master blenders in the 60s, 70s and 80s simply isn’t realistic anymore. The whisky has changed.
Campeltown
Campbeltown was once home to 34 distilleries in the early 1800s, producing a trademark briny campfire malt with an oily texture that is unique and sought after around the world. After strife with war and taxes, today only three distilleries are in production but they stay true to the style that has been consistent since the beginning of the 19th century.
The now famous Masataka Taketsuru worked in Campbeltown as he honed his craft before he eventually returned home to Japan to work at Suntory and eventually create the legendary first Nikka distillery at Yoichi in Hokkaido.
Lowlands
Whisky from the Lowlands has historical significance. Just north of the English border, the whiskies from this area often have little or no peat making them fresh, fruity and aromatic. At one time, they were making only mass quantities of whisky at a highly industrialized rate. The few gems such as the aforementioned Rosebank distillery are deemed as some of the greatest examples of Lowland whisky.
In my next post I will be featuring tasting notes and scores of a select distillery from each region.
Contributing Editor Elliot Faber is the beverage director of two cool Japanese restaurants in Hong Kong – Yardbird and Ronin – as well as Sunday’s Grocery. He is also one of the world’s experts on sake, Japanese whisky, shochu, awamori and Japanese beer.
