Australia boasts great diversity in both terroir and winemaking today, producing a breathtaking spectrum of reds year after year. Yet, it’s still a common misconception that Australian reds are just blockbuster wines packed with sweet fruit and vanilla oak. In fact, over the past five to 10 years, Australian producers in the cool-climate areas have been making lighter and more elegant reds; for instance, we see a red progression happening in Clare Valley, where talented producers are taking charge and creating young, fresher styles. From a complex, 99-point pinot noir to unique shiraz-based blends, here are five cool-climate reds that are clear examples of how well-balanced and elegant Australian reds can be.
When Tim Kirk of Clonakilla visited the Rhone Valley back in 1991, he was inspired by the great syrah-based wines of Cote Rotie and Hermitage. It was then that he decided to create a silkier version of shiraz with more complexity at his very own vineyard in at Murrumbateman. Upon his return to Australia, Tim was also impressed with what Yarra Yering had achieved with their Dry Red No. 2, which is a blend of shiraz with 2% viognier, 2% mataro and 1% marsanne.
Fortunately for Tim, his father John Kirk planted some viognier back in 1986, and so, he created their iconic blend of co-fermented shiraz and viognier. A wine of great balance, this blend does not only show youthful appeal but also great aging potential. Ranked No. 28 on our Top 100 Australian Wines of 2017, the same wine of different vintage (2015) was named No. 2 in 2016.
Speaking of Yarra Yering in Yarra Valley, its Dry Red Wine No. 1 2016 is not to be overlooked. An elegant, Bordeaux-inspired blend with a medium body and velvety tannins, this No. 1 brings this style of wine back in vogue. Continuing the legacy of the late Dr Bailey Carrodus, Sarah Crowe, the new winemaker of Yarra Yering, has taken Yarra Yering’s wines to a new level while staying true to Carrodus’ vision. The old vines have delivered the best ever results in the recent releases. More notably, the featured Dry Red Wine No. 1 2016 here has achieved an impressive score of 98 points.
Mac Forbes is a relatively young winery in the Yarra Valley, which was founded in 2004, and it is now one of the new dynamic leaders in the region. The wine that we are recommending here, Mac Forbes Syrah Yarra Valley Healesville 2015, is a strikingly complex one with a score of 95 points. Described as “a modern iteration of cooler-climate Yarra syrah” by our contributing editor Nick Stock, this young syrah is an enticing swirl of red cherries, dark fruits and sturdy tannic.
Best’s Great Western in Central Victoria’s Grampians wine region boasts some of the oldest vines in Australia, and these historic old plantings have produced two syrahs that made to our Top 100 Australian Wines of 2017: Best’s Shiraz Great Western Thomson Family 2015 (No. 27) and Best’s Shiraz Great Western Bin No. 0 2015 (No. 92). The latter is the one we’re featuring in this blog post. As one of Best’s Icon flagships, it is a remarkable wine with a charming yet complex nose of plums, berries and spices.
Lastly, it’s impossible not to mention at least one pinot noir when it comes to cool-climate reds. In Tasmania’s Coal River Valley region, Tolpuddle Vineyard is making arguably the greatest pinot noir in Australia. Under the new ownership of Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith (Shaw & Smith) since 2011, the vineyard has been delivering improved results and now, showing full potential.
With an outstanding score of 99 points, 6th release of Tolpuddle Vineyard pinot noir is conclusive proof as it is a true vineyard expression with much refinement. Whether it’s the wildly attractive fruit aromas or the outstanding palate with fresh fruit flavors and long, helix-like tannins, this pinot noir has truly impressed us.
While the styles may vary, each of these five reds captures the unique combination of region, climate and winemaking in a glass. Try these bottles and let us know what you think! — Contributing Editor Nick Stock and Managing Editor Rachel Kwok