I am finishing a long week in Argentina, first in Patagonia and then in Mendoza. I keep on thinking about malbec and what it means for Argentina.
Of course, it is the most important grape type of this most fascinating country. It is to Argentina what pinot noir is to France and nebbiolo and sangiovese are to Italy. Malbec defines fine wines as a whole in Argentina.
What’s interesting is how this definition is changing. Malbec is finally coming of age as a wonderful communicator or medium for the diverse and alluring soils and microclimates of the best wine regions of Argentina.
The old school style of winemaking in Argentina is losing ground. I find it as a wine critic harder and harder to like. Why hide great fruit and terroir with overripe fruit, over-extraction and sweet and overpowering oak? You lose the purity and sense of place with wines that are blockbusters, as they were so fondly called years ago, and many of us could not finish a glass.
I have met many young winemakers who despise the old style such as Sebastian Zuccardi, Marcelo Pelleriti, Fernando Buscema, and Jose Lovaglio. They want to show the world the amazing vineyards they have through refined, focused and clear wines. I applaud them.
I have to go back to taste another 150 wines before I leave for Chile in a day. I have already tasted 400 wines. The 2013 and 2012 look to be excellent vintages in all regions in Argentina, although 2014 is less consistent.
I know that malbec is the great grape of Argentina and so many of the young and old winemakers now understand that less is more in winemaking here in Mendoza, but also in Salta and Patagonia, Argentina is a fine wine power to be reckoned with. They are leading the way.
Check out this video my video editor Jacobo shot on malbec in Mendoza last year. It makes you think.
Photos: James with Hans Vinding-Diers in his Noemía vineyard in Patagonia; José Lovaglio, owner and winemaker at Vaglio with Susana Balbo, owner of Susana Balbo Wines; Zuccardi’s chief winemaker Sebastian Zuccardi.
