There’s a lot going on this time of year with harvest in Australia but I always look forward to catching up with former Melbourne resident turned Burgundy-based winemaker, Jane Eyre.
Each year, Eyre heads back down under to oversee the harvest and vinification of her small make of pinot noir in Victoria (which she then entrusts to Bill Downie for elevage and bottling) and she brings a selection of her latest micro-negoce wines from Burgundy.
This year saw the 2015 Australian pinots opened alongside the 2014 Burgundy wines and, happily, the distinctly different terroirs are as legible as a common thread of winemaker style.
In terms of winemaker style, I am not talking about cartoon-like oak use, exaggerated ripeness, fashionable reduction or over-stated barrel fermentation; in fact, the complete opposite.
Eyre is a thoughtful and determined winemaker, with clear ideas about the style of pinot noir she likes. She prizes fragrance and delicacy over artifact and ripeness and structurally her preference is for wines that are not over ambitious.
“I’m interested in aromatics. If you want tannic wines there are plenty out there but I don’t like mean wines, my wines are made for drinking in the first decade,” Eyre says assuredly. Modesty, approachability and a sense of restraint are common threads in her wines, vintages swing them gently and here, but she has set a definitive course for now. These are definitely wines to watch.
Jane Eyre Pinot Noir Mornington Peninsula 2015
A little lifted with bright red cherry fruit and a brambly edge, a thread of blue flowers and savory, almost chalky nuances, some background spice, fresh leaves and seasoned oak cedary notes. The palate has a silky thread of tangy fruit with saffron-like spice and a mellow, laid back texture; this is succulent, vibrant and bright with dusty, chocolate-like tannin texture. Red and purple cherries to close. Drink now. 90 points.
Jane Eyre Pinot Noir Gippsland 2015
More aromatic depth and trademark Gippsland earthy notes with a very composed, integrated and complex attitude; this has an array of poached strawberry, cherry and blueberry with a hint of iodine and violets – little in the way of overt oak. The palate is smoothly honed, fleshy and builds at an even pace creating a convincing sense of mid-palate concentration and a swirling expansive finish bedded down on layered and even tannin. Drink now. 92 points.
Jane Eyre Côte de Nuits Villages 2014
From the plot Le Fourneau in the village of Colgoloin, this is a new wine for Eyre with no new oak, it presents as super fresh and fragrant. Really pretty and floral with a spicy edge and a wave of fragrant blue violets. Has good purity, density and composure on the palate, pitch perfect balance, supple tannins and an impressive deep fleshy finish. Great value, drink now. 91 points.
Jane Eyre Gevrey-Chambertin 2014
This has an earthy and more cryptic mood on the nose with a brambly, gently herbal edge, a little cassis, some leafy nuances and a minerally thread with a definitive oak moment, plus plenty of cherry fruit too. The palate has good depth and drive and the structure is quite fine, tannins are definitively expressed and the weight is nicely delivered. Drink now and for 6 years. 92 points
Jane Eyre Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru Aux Vergelesses 2014
Brambly and briary with bright expressive red fruits, a waft of pepper and spice, attractive rose-like florals, wild cherry fruits and flowers too. The depth is impressive, it really surges on the palate with a crisp core of tannin and a savory earthy finish. Great wine, tangy and crisp. Drink now. 92 points
Jane Eyre Volnay 2014
Rose-like florals and a bright array of boysenberry and raspberry fruits, there’s a leafy edge too, with vanillin spice and a lighter herbal and aromatic edge, bright and fresh. The palate is neatly cut, juicy and full of energy with red cherry and plum fruit flavors. Of all Eyre’s wins, this is the one most made to go some distance; not at all heavy, but it needs time. Best around 2020. 92 points.
Contributing Editor Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.
