My Article: More Time in A Great Wine, Food Town

(MONTREAL) I met some of the top wine writers in the province of Québec here today, and they were a great group of people. It reminded me of being back in London or Paris in the 1980s when a great group of wine scribes would get together and taste and compare thoughts about wine. I miss those days.

We tasted a range of wines that I rated from a tasting with the Société des Alcools du Québec in Montréal, the state-run wine and spirits distribution company (it has about 400 stores throughout the province). These were wines that I tasted about two months ago in a blind tasting in the SAQ offices. I am duplicating my retail tastings in New York, Los Angeles, and Hong Kong in Montreal – but on a larger scale.

I think my French Canadian colleagues were interested in my palate, and I had the feeling they were slightly surprised I didn’t go for super fruit-forward wines, or “fruit bombs” as some called it. Don’t get me wrong – I love bright fruit, but it has to be balanced with structure and acidity. A wine should be made to be drunk with food; that’s fundamental.

SAQ has an excellent selection of value wines in its nearly 8,000 labels listed under the “specialty selection.” I want to do tastings focusing on these wines, many of which are available around the world. Why taste wines that nobody seems to be able to find, buy, or drink? I spent too much of my time in my life as a wine critic doing this.

Anyway, I continue to be impressed with Montreal. It must be one of the best wine and food cities in the world, and may be the No. 2 city in North America for wine and food, following New York City.

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12 thoughts on “My Article: More Time in A Great Wine, Food Town

  1. mneuer says:
    How did you ever conclude that Montreal "may be the No 2 city for wine and food" ? I am from there and whenever I return I am pretty depressed. What is your experience there...red-carpet treatment by tax-funded wine organizers? Have you ever looked for a good wine at 9 PM in Montreal ? I doubt it. Have you ever tried to find some good fresh fish in Montreal to cook for friends ? I doubt it. How about looking for sales on wines in Montreal ? Doubt it. Unlike France, there was no wine culture in Quebec until recently, and the government-run wine system strangles a lot of the vitality and creativity that one finds elsewere. How exactly is Montreal ahead of San Francisco or other cities, especially those in wine-producing areas ?

    Trent
  2. James Suckling says:
    Wow Trent. i just said there was a good vibe and that it "may be." Everyone is welcom to his or her opinion. You seem so negative about your country... What a shame. I love Canada. My grandparents were Canadian.
  3. James Suckling says:
    PS. Try buying a bottle of wine in Paris at 9 pm....
  4. jerryrosenblatt says:
    So James, to be sure, not all ex-Montrealers feel about our fabulous city as does Trent. Montreal indeed has some of the greatest restaurants in the world, and I am a HUGE fan of the SAQ! Yes, some of the prices are way too high (Veuve Cliquot - Yellow Label at $68-72) and yes, our selection of California cabs and some great new Chilean wine is weak, BUT, I've traveled the world, looking for wine, and I'm not sure there are many places that offer the selection and pricing on Italian wine as does our own SAQ. That is likely also true for French wine, in particular Bourgogne. What is also fabulous about our city is that one can go to AMAZING BYOW resto's, that serve incredible full-course classic French food, all for $45 - and in the process, you could to bring your trophy or otherwise desired wines. This is a very special treasure in our city. Granted, you can't buy wine at 9pm in many places (other than undrinkable $12 bottles at the local Provi-Soir - i.e. 7-Eleven), but who cares - for those of us who really care about the wine, we have decided well in advance of 9pm what we will be drinking that evening!
  5. dfont74395 says:
    How was the weather?
  6. martcouz says:
    James, nice to hear that you are in town and I'm happy to know you are having a good time! I'm also sorry to hear bashing comments about Montreal and the SAQ as I believe there are tons of wine and food lovers here (must be our European side) who agree that we are very well served ! Yours to discover.

    Enjoy your stay !

    Martin
  7. JohnnyB says:
    I love Montreal for it's love of life. It is an eclectic diverse multicultural city in a predominantly french speaking province. The SAQ is not perfect but it's selection and pricing of many French and Italian wines is second to none in north america. Sassicaia 2007 at $139 Chateau Clos Saint Jean Deus ex Machina 2007 $99 etc... Sure we could have more quality west coast cabs and pinots. The restos are in the top few cities in North America. From Tuque,la chroniqueand Montreal has so many amazing places to dine and enjoy wine. My problem is to find a place to enjoy a cuban cigar in the artic winter. Well no place is perfect.
  8. locauch says:
    @ JOHNNYB : You can enjoy one at the Whisky Café. With the great selection of Scotch whiskeys they have I am pretty sure you would enjoy it. Add to this the warm lighting that makes you feel as you were at home in front of the fireplace and you have the perfect place to have a drink and a cigar on cold winter day.
  9. Mimik says:
    Glad you had a good time james in my city and look forward to your next visit. I'll keep an eye out for your scores on the 17th. Cheers!
  10. marcrobillard says:
    Well it's good to hear from you again James. Missing your insight, reviews and wine stories of late.
    I was pleasently surprised and thrilled to see your shelf talkers and ragtings up on the shelves at the SAQ here in Montreal this weekend.
    I had been wondering where and when you would "go public" again and go figure it was in my home town! Well sort of.
    I fully agree with your assesment of our city for it's love of wine and food. I love it! I am also very impressed with the SAQ even though it is a state run Co. but I must admit, for wine collectors and even the avarage consumer they do a great job.
    I been following you for 12 years now, since I started collecting wine (for consumption only) and always trust your palate and reviews of my favorite wines from Italy and Bordeaux...And the occasional port.
    A few words on this great city of ours for your future visits. 1. Never leave anything in your car. Never! Unfortunately there is a real "smash and grab" problem here. 2. If you have not already, you must try "Le Club Chase et Pêche" restaurant. One of the best if not the best in town. And 3, your friends from Rush will be in town on April 20th...Just in case you are planning a visit around that time. Concerts in this city are a blast with one of the most entusiastic audiences anywhere!
    Great to see your back and I am already enjoying your new venture. Best of luck!
    Marc
  11. James Suckling says:
    Thanks for all the tips on Montreal. Sounds like I am going have to off-line BYOB dinner in Montreal on my next trip in April. How cool would it be to all go Rush!
  12. marcrobillard says:
    Let us know if anything comes together in April James. Happy travels...No doubt.