The 12 Virginia wines in the 2015 Governor’s Cup Case tell great stories about the quality-driven trajectory of one of North America’s most interesting wine scenes.
One is about top producers really hitting their stride with Meritage. Estate after estate is hitting and breaking the 90-point barrier. Their wines are enjoyable, bright, and elegant Bordeaux-style blends. The strengthening trend rests on decades of experience. That pretty effectively debunks earlier commentary that suggested whites as Virginia’s forté. (It isn’t either/or in the Commonwealth—but more about that another day.)
Top winners in the 2015 Governor’s Cup—one of the more thorough U.S. wine competitions—also highlight the accomplishment of a number of remarkable winemakers. These include Christopher Ritzcovan (Jefferson Vineyard’s exciting 2010 Meritage, roaring into the mid-90-point range) and Rhone-born Matthieu Finot (King Family Vineyard’s beautiful 2012 Meritage).
Another 2015 story is about innovation—and reward—with grapes less widely-grown in Virginia. Burgundy-trained winemaker Michael Shaps (Michael Shaps Wineworks 2012 Tannat) stands tall in the innovating cohort, as does South Africa-born Stephan Heyns (CrossKeys Vineyards’ terrific 2013 Touriga).
Finally, the results of this year’s Cup really affirm what Virginia Governor Terence McAuliffe means when he says the state “has a deep bench.” The top winners came from distinct wine-producing parts of the state. Three were from the Shenandoah Valley, four from Northern Virginia, and five from Central Virginia. Different climates, terroirs, challenges, and results. But they add up to wines of charm, quality and variety.
And some are really rare, with very low production levels, like 100 cases for Shaps’ dazzling 2012 Ripasso-style petit manseng, or 95 cases for Catoctin’s pretty 2012 Meritage. Most of the best wines are sold directly, so it is important to follow and engage the Virginia producers you like. Most are very open and accessible. A lot, especially the northern Shenandoah estates, are in spectacular landscapes that are worth the journey alone in any season.
James first tried Virginia wines at a tasting event I hosted in Italy 12 years ago. Later, after visits to some top producers, he wrote he was struck by the “…growing number of sophisticated, bright, beautifully-made wines” that are raising the profile of Virginia among the wine public and critics. He tasted and rated the 2014 Governor’s Case and just tasted the 2015 winners. Click the wine names below to see the ratings.
Catocin Creek Winery Virginia 2012
CrossKeys Touriga Virginia 2013
Delfrosse Monticello Meritage 2013
King Family Monticello Meritage 2012
Michael Shaps Tannat Monticello 2012
Michael Shaps Wineworks Virginia Raisin d’Etre White 2012
Muse Vineyards Shenandoah Valley Clio 2009
Narmada Winery Virginia Yash-Vir 2010
North Gate Loudoun County Meritage 2012
Rockbridge Vineyards Virginia V d’Or 2010
Th. Jefferson Virginia Meritage 2010
Vint Hill Craft Winery Petit Verdot Virginia 2012
U.S.-based William McIlhenny is Associate Publisher of JamesSuckling.com, and Co-Publisher of HavanaInsider.com, James Suckling’s newest Cuba-related project. He is a former American diplomat and an adviser to several international companies and foundations.
