There aren’t too many winemakers in Australia, or the world for that matter, who can lay claim to making the diverse range of wine styles that Peter Gambetta makes. As part of the winemaking team behind the Yalumba and Hill-Smith Family, he is responsible for some of the company’s most important wines.
But you can imagine the mental gear shift between crafting cool climate riesling and chardonnay from the Heggies Vineyard, down to Coonawarra for some neatly tailored cabernet wines and then across to Margaret River in Western Australia to cover the other home base of great Aussie cabernet.
The man must have some air points. In fact, I’d only ever spoken to him briefly prior to this catch-up and waved at him a couple of times passing through airports in opposite directions.
Over a quick bite at the Prince Wine Store’s excellent Bellota bar in South Melbourne, Gambetta presented a rock solid line-up of wines from some outstanding recent vintages.
Heggies Vineyard Riesling Eden Valley 2015
The nose here is super fragrant and has a wealth of lime blossom and jasmine-like perfume with rocky, mineral notes. The palate is fleshy and has juicy appeal early on, plenty of lime citrus and orchard fruit flavor; tightens through the finish, strong wine. 94 points. Drink now or cellar for 10 or more years.
Heggies Vineyard Chardonnay Eden Valley 2013
Fruity and bright on the nose with a lot of just-ripe peach and white nectarine fruit aromas, some shaved fennel, white flowers and a savory almond-like edge. Really speaks of a cool climate origin. The palate has a handy mix of generous, ripe fleshy texture with restrained citrus flavors, flows nicely. Drink now. 92 points.
Yalumba Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Menzies The Cigar 2012
Estate-grown cabernet with a 7% addition of merlot, this has a cedary, cassis fruited nose with a confident, ripe style to it. The palate runs long and even and has the right balance of tannin structure and approachable fleshy fruit. Drink now. 92 points.
Yalumba Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra The Menzies 2012
The flagship cabernet from this Coonawarra estate is an earthy, rich and concentrated expression that carries plenty of purple cherry, iodine, cedary attractive oak notes and cassis. The palate scoops deep and long, tannins are strong yet supple; creamy polished texture through the middle and a long, precise cherry-flavored finish. 94 points. Best from 2018.
Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River 2013
An amalgam of parcels from seven growers in the Wilyabrup and Yallingup districts of Margaret River that Yalumba ships back to vinify in the Barossa. Very pure cassis and red berry fruits on the nose, with some riper, glossy leafy nuances typical of the region. The palate is supple and even with a heart of creamy raspberry and cassis flavor, tannins are open-knit and the wine holds fleshy and balanced right to through the finish. Approachable; drink now or cellar for six or more years. 93 points.
Ringbolt Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River 2011
This has plenty of violet-like florals on the nose, smells of earl grey tea, brambly red fruits and cherry compote. The palate has a good mix of fleshy fruit and fine-grained tannin, liquorice-tinged finish. Balanced and approachable. Drink now. 93 points.
Photo: Peter Gambetta
Contributing Editor Nick Stock is a renowned Australian wine writer, author, presenter and filmmaker who reports on his worldwide wine tasting experiences for JamesSuckling.com.
