The Manetti family, which has run the Fontodi winery since 1968, is a true champion of sangiovese. What has been quietly evolving at this 200-acre estate nestled in the “golden basin” known as Conca d’Ora, south of Panzano in Chianti Classico, is its progressive pursuit to seek the sangiovese grape’s fullest expression.
Starting from its 2012 vintage, this certified organic winery is reforming its single vineyard wine Vigna del Sorbo, eradicating the cabernet sauvignon grape in the blend completely and making pure sangiovese. The ratio of cabernet has been gradually decreasing from 10 percent in the 2010 vintage to five percent in 2011 until it was finally reduced to zero with the winery’s sweeping decision to root out the grape variety completely for future vintages.
“We believe sangiovese is the best way to represent the terrior. With a French variety, it loses the typicity of the sangiovese,” explains Federico Manetti on his recent trip to Bangkok. He now oversees the winery’s daily operation.
By no means does it mean the winery’s pursuit for perfect sangiovese expression started just in recent years. In fact, it traces all the way back to 1981, when the winery produced a pure sangiovese grape from its best vineyard called Flaccianello – today its flagship red. At that time, labeling a pure sangiovese Chianti Classico was not allowed, so for years, this red was downgraded and sold as table wine, Federico says.
Flaccianello is considered as one of the best Tuscan collectibles by James; its 2006 vintage was near perfection. Its 2011 vintage, presented by Federico at the Fontodi wine master class organized by local importer Gfour here in Bangkok, was given 95 points by James. It’s a selection of the best sangiovese on the Fontodi property each harvest.
When asked about the quality of the wine, the vintner says it’s all about vineyard location. All the vineyards are south-facing, allowing ample sunlight for sangiovese to mature to perfection. Its unique galestro soil – rocky and poor and high in limestone – provides great drainage and limits excessive grape yields, he continues.
“Sangiovese tends to produce high yields; if you have too many grapes, the vines will struggle to ripen. The fact that the soil was not that rich, it helps control grape quantities,” Federico explains. In addition, the temperature gap between the days and nights in the vineyards can stretch to almost 20 degrees Celsius; this, according to the vintner, helped the grapes to retain the aromas, acidity and freshness.
To understand the wines better, check out the four wines presented by Federico in Bangkok from the winery’s 2009 and 2011 vintages. The 2011 is a hotter vintage compared with 2009, and wines are therefore, big and ripe with softer tannins in general. Yet the three 2011 wines here are not marked by excessive heat due to careful viticulture and grape selection. Click on wine names for James’ tasting notes and scores if you are a subscriber.
Fontodi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna Del Sorbo 2011
Fontodi Toscano Centrale Flaccianello Della Pieve 2011
Also, don’t miss the video below, in which James interviewed owner Giovanni Manetti, to learn more about the vineyard of Flaccianello.
Photos from top to bottom: The four wines showcased by Fontodi at a wine master class in Bangkok; A bottle of Fontodi Toscano Centrale Flaccianello Della Pieve 2011
– Natalie Wang, managing editor of JamesSuckling.com based in Bangkok
