My Article: Cannubi Cannubi – More Controversy?

(Clicca qui per versione italiana)

I was surprised at last week’s ruling by the Italian High Court that allows Barolo wine producers with vineyards outside the traditional 15 hectares of Cannubi to label their wines simply “Cannubi”.

I feel it may only be bad for the consumer in the long run, who for the most part won’t know that Marchesi di Barolo’s Cannubi is from a particular, north-facing parcel of land called nearest the village of Barolo – the vineyard of Muscatel – or that Luciano Sandrone’s Cannubi comes from the more concave, southeast-facing vineyard of Boschis.

I always thought it was more helpful to have labels marked with their own vineyard: Cannubi Boschis, Cannubi Muscatel, Cannubi San Lorenzo or Cannubi Valletta. In fact, I thought the Cannubi at the top of the hillside should be called Cannubi Cannubi – seriously.

It’s true that most wines from these various sub-sites have a very similar style that is wonderful in structure regardless of winemaking differences. They all share the aromatics and finesse I expect of a Cannubi, but I still like to know where a product comes from.

I have not read the court documents, but it seems producers will still be allowed to continue using the individual vineyard names as they currently do. And I imagine that, for example, Luciano Sandrone will continue calling his Barolo from the prized hill Cannubi Boschis, and that the Cerettos will call their new Barolo Cannubi San Lorenzo.

Naturally Ernesto Abbona, who originally instigated judicial proceedings, will use only the name “Cannubi”. Indeed, I spoke to him on the phone and he was elated with the court decision. “The outcome was the only conclusion possible,” he told me. “My family, the Burlotto family and Francesco Rinaldi family have been producing in this area for four generations. I was confident of the outcome. History speaks for itself. I have all the material, information and facts to support it. My land has always been Cannubi.”

Maria-Téresa Mascarello of Cantina Bartolo Mascarello too is as vocal about the discussion as ever. And yet her tiny part of Cannubi goes into a blended Barolo.

The fact is that internationally, most Cannubi producers already do use the name “Cannubi” on their labels without the vineyard modifier. And, as I said above, those that choose not to will probably carry on not to. The whole ruling may be much to do about nothing.

The biggest owner of vineyards in the original parcel of Cannubi, Paolo Damilano, sees a silver lining: “For us it would have been better if the outcome was to keep Cannubi divided in the various zones; however, now with it just been “Cannubi.” it is actually a lot simpler from a commercial point of view to promote it on a global level to the consumer. I don’t see it being such a negative thing.”

Regardless of whether the ruling itself is of much practical significance, I think the debate is still important for the consumer. That’s why I’d like you to watch the film for free today, comment below and vote on the poll. (Oh, and it doesn’t sound like many Cannubi producers are going to be getting together for a casual dinner like in the movie any time soon!)