My Article: Bordeaux – Alive and Well in the USA

Bordeaux producers in San Francisco

It seems only fitting to quote Mark Twain following my Bordeaux Confidential event in San Francisco over the weekend at the General’s Residence in Fort Mason. I have heard a number of commentators in the wine world announcing the death of Bordeaux wine with consumers (particularly in the United Kingdom), but as Twain was said to have written following his inaccurately reported death, “The reports of my death have been greatly exaggerated.”

Indeed, Bordeaux looked to be alive and well at both of my wine events, with New York City and San Francisco selling out. There were about 500 people at each. What struck me the most was the relative youth and sophistication of the crowds. They averaged about 40 years old and they came keen to taste and ask questions to the 30 vintners pouring, from the owners of such great names as Château Pontet-Canet and Château Ducru-Beaucaillou to representatives of lesser-known Château Carignan and Château Cheval Noir.

Some of the wine in New York City

People were impressed with the outstanding quality of the wines served, which ranged in vintages from 2012 to 2000. But they were even more enthusiastic about the prices that were from about $300 to $19 a bottle.

“What can I buy from California that is this quality for $19?” said one participant on Saturday at the tasting.

“The wines are so drinkable and fresh,” said another.

This is the magic of Bordeaux in a commercial age of slightly overdone and alcoholic wines. Granted, this is changing, even in a stronghold such as Napa Valley. People are making more balanced and drinkable wines, particularly with recent vintages.

But I have to wonder if wine merchants in the United States in particular are offering consumers what they want, which obviously includes good value and drinkable Bordeaux.

James Suckling, Jeff Zacharia & Andrew McMurray of Zachys

In addition, I think it’s time for those who sell Bordeaux in the United States, whether it’s a wine shop or a restaurant, to consider offering other vintages than just the very best, such as 2009 and 2010. The old cliché for the American market that we only buy top vintages of Bordeaux should be proven a thing of the past. For example, many of the vintages poured and appreciated at Bordeaux Confidential were such lesser-rated years as 2006 and 2008, and those are years that are drinking beautifully. The 2012 vintage is the same. Check out my ratings if you are a subscriber.

People enjoying the wine in San Francisco

In the meantime, I suggest you try a drinkable and slightly aged vintage of Bordeaux such as 2001, 2004, 2006, or 2007 just to recalibrate with the region. It’s what about 1,000 people did last week, and they were loving it.