The Loire Valley of France continues to surprise with its energy and diversity, largely due to the ambition and audacity of its young talents. From Domaine Belargus in Anjou to Jerome Bretaudeau in Muscadet, the Loire has a new lease on life that is exciting the wine world, and I share this enthusiasm.
Jerome Bretaudeau is getting a lot of attention these days. His wines have an identity and a signature that stand out. The appellation – often confined in the imagination of wine lovers to the production of lively, rather straightforward wines to be enjoyed fresh with seafood – has much more to express. Yet in line with what Joseph Landron instilled a generation ago when he introduced single-vineyard Muscadets, the appellation’s terroirs reveal themselves when they are correctly highlighted.
A great example of this is Statera, a pinot noir. It is grown in the Muscadet region but has to be labeled as a Vin de France because “Muscadet” is only authorized on bottles of white wine made from the grape variety Melon de Bourgogne.
Statera is popular among discerning wine drinkers and sommeliers, especially in France, but I think it’s just a matter of time before it gains international standing. Billecart-Salmon of Champagne has recently invested in the estate and it will be interesting to see how their involvement may benefit the very special cuvees of Jerome Bretaudeau.
The wine reveals itself to be subtle and elegant with a pure and unadorned character. It’s lively and crisp with a juicy core of red fruit and a seductive finish.
–Kevin Davy, Tasting Manager
