As the best-priced deal among the few dozen 100-point wines we rated during our tastings of nearly 40,000 bottles this year, El Enemigo Cabernet Franc Gualtallary Gran Enemigo Single Vineyard 2019 is an easy choice for our Argentine Wine of the Year.
This cabernet franc-based red from Gualtallary not only represents remarkable value at about $100 but also epitomizes Argentina’s unwavering dedication to producing unique wines from extreme, high-altitude terroirs. This is a wine that is nothing short of extraordinary. Far from being sweet and big, it exudes a remarkable sense of place, showing precision, purity and refinement accompanied by a vibrant mineral character and fine austerity. However, with only 7,000 bottles made, it is difficult to find, especially now that it has been rated so highly.
It comes from a vintage that has been greatly lauded by Mendoza winemakers. 2019 was a cool and dry year that provided ideal conditions for crafting exceptional wines, including this Gualtallary standout crafted by Alejandro Vigil.
Situated in a very cool-climate zone at an elevation of 1,470 meters, the 1.5-hectare Gualtallary vineyard comprises rocky, calcareous soils and high-density planting, with approximately 12,000 vines per hectare. The Gran Enemigo Single Vineyard 2019 incorporates around 12 percent malbec as result of co-plantation.
Vigil’s fondness for using whole clusters, provided the stems are in optimal condition, is clearly reflected in this wine, which also underwent three days of semicarbonic maceration before the start of conventional fermentation. This resulted in enhanced aromatic complexity, as well as accentuated texture and freshness. The wine is intense, exhibiting a medley of mineral tension, fluidity and ethereal qualities on the palate, complemented by structured, chalky tannins. It is a landmark cabernet franc from Mendoza.
Vigil’s winemaking prowess extends beyond cabernet franc, as exemplified by the great malbecs and chardonnays he makes in Mendoza for Bodega Catena Zapata. The 2021 was another benchmark vintage for Catena Zapata’s Adrianna vineyard in Gualtallary, with a consistent yield of fine wines.
Among them was our No. 3 Argentine wine, the Catena Zapata Chardonnay Mendoza Adrianna Vineyard White Bones 2021, a refined chardonnay that effuses intriguing ginger spices and exotic perfumes of dried herbs and flowers. It’s a chardonnay that is often compared to Burgundy’s most revered grand crus, particularly in blind tastings, but the White Bones remains distinctively captivating with its own unique sense of place.
Another wine from Gualtallary in our top 10 is the No. 9 Bemberg Estate Wines Gualtallary Valle de Uco Pionero 2019. It’s a robust, Bordeaux-inspired red wine predominantly made from malbec grapes. It comes from a vineyard sitting at about 1,300 meters altitude in Gualtallary, so isn’t quite the “extreme” wine the Gran Enemigo 2019 is.
Our No. 10 wine, though – the Terrazas de los Andes Malbec Gualtallary Valle de Uco El Espinillo Parcel N 1E 2020 – one-ups the Gran Enemigo in terms of the elevation of its vineyard. This one comes from an astounding 1,630 meters altitude, and it’s one of the finest offerings from 2020, evoking exotic aromas of wild herbs, jarilla, grilled tarragon, and an impressive depth of fresh red and blue fruits.
Herve Birnie-Scott, who made the wine for Terrazas de los Andes, emphasized their dedication to preserving freshness and linearity. He likened El Espinillo to “a malbec harvested from the moon,” underscoring the winery’s commitment to showcasing the region’s potential for producing wines that go beyond the stereotypically generic, big and sweet malbecs. Birnie-Scott has since moved on to a consultancy role with LVMH, where he focuses on Chandon. The new winemaker for Terrazas de los Andes is Lucas Lowi, the former winemaker at Numanthia.
There were also plenty of outstanding red wines from Argentina’s 2020 vintage, particularly those originating from the cooler, extremely high-altitude vineyards of the Uco Valley. Some wines that incorporated a higher percentage of cabernet franc also stood out in a year characterized by its richness with darker, sweeter fruit. 2020 had an abnormally warm and dry summer, and coupled with the unpredictable circumstances surrounding Covid-19 quarantine policies, the harvest in Mendoza was exceptionally early. Estate manager and winemaker Philippe Rolet of Bodegas Caro noted that it was the earliest vintage they had seen in the past 50 years.
The Matias Riccitelli Malbec Cabernet Franc Mendoza Riccitelli & Father 2020 (No. 4) and Catena Zapata Mendoza Nicolas Catena Zapata 2020 (No. 12) both excelled in combining malbec and cabernets.
The Catena Zapata 2020 has a 25 percent proportion of cabernet franc from Paraje Altamira, which gives it a more refreshing quality. The 54 percent cabernet sauvignon and 21 percent malbec in the wine lend class and fleshiness but without sweetness.
The Zuccardi Malbec Valle de Uco Paraje Altamira Finca Canal Uco 2020 (No. 5), Viña Cobos Malbec Los Arboles Valle de Uco Chañares Estate 2020 (No. 7) and Susana Balbo Wines Malbec Valle de Uco Gualtallary Nosotros Single Vineyard Nómade 2020 (No. 13) are among the top malbecs we tasted from 2020. They do not exhibit the heat that one might expect from this warm vintage. Instead, their complexity lies within their restrained ripeness. For Viña Cobos founder and winemaker Paul Hobbs, the delectably saline Chañares Estate has dialed back even more from weight and voluptuousness but gained linearity, layers and freshness.
“We never had any experience in picking a whole month earlier, but we would have made a mistake if we didn’t harvest and waited,” Hobbs said, reflecting on the challenging circumstances of the 2020 vintage.
The result was wines with excellent freshness and vibrant energy. Hobbs also holds high regard for the 2021 vintage, considering it the best of the past decade. In fact, he goes so far as to suggest that it may be the grandest vintage in recent memory, surpassing the successful trio of 2017, 2018, and 2019, calling it the “granddaddy” of them all.
From our tastings, many outstanding malbecs and cabernets from both 2020 and 2021 showed better natural freshness and crunchiness with more details and lower alcohol. We also observed an abundance of red and blue fruit, which are prized characteristics of Mendoza’s malbecs and cabernets. Jeff Mausbach and Alejandro Sejanovich made some of the finest Buscado Vivo o Muerto reds I’ve tasted so far from this vintage. They are much more refined, pure and fruit expressive, and it’s why we put the Buscado Vivo o Muerto Gualtallary Mendoza El Cerro 2021 at No. 11 on our list.
A chardonnay and pinot noir from extreme terroirs also featured among out top 10 wines. Our No. 6 wine is the Otronia Chardonnay Patagonia Block III & VI 2020, which comes from one of the world’s most extreme southern latitudes on the global wine map. The cold and dry climate in Otronia allows for a better accumulation of intense aromatics and flavors, and this wine’s piercing high acidity and low pH result in a vibrant mouthfeel brimming with verve and offering sheer gastronomic pleasure. The 2020 vintage is the finest expression of this chardonnay we have tasted so far, and its price is reasonable considering the stunning quality it delivers.
At No. 8, the Domaine Nico Pinot Noir Valle de Uco Soeur et Freres La Savante 2021, is another validation of the wonders that can come from high-altitude vineyards – this one at 1,450 meters.
Many of Argentina’s top wines today have veered away from excessive ripeness, extraction and sweet oak; instead they have embraced a path that highlights the unique expressions of their terroirs while enhancing freshness, texture and drinkability. Such exceptional bottles can be enjoyed immediately, despite their complexity and depth of flavors that hint at the quality of a serious “grand vin” capable of withstanding the test of time. Although Argentina’s wine industry has faced challenges due to economic instability, the country’s top wines are becoming increasingly precise and distinctive, proving that its vinous excellence extends beyond big and rich malbecs as the quest for getting the most out of great terroirs continues.
– Zekun Shuai, Senior Editor
Note: The list of wines below is comprised of bottles tasted and rated in 2023 by the tasters at JamesSuckling.com. You can sort the wines below by vintage, score and alphabetically by winery name. You can also search for specific wines in the search bar.
