One way to look at the recent court ruling in Cannubi (Click here to read the blog and watch the movie) could be to think about the value Cannubi has imparted to the wine producer the name, and wonder whether the expansion will lead its devaluation and the devaluation of the producer him or herself.
James poses the question to Matteo Einaudi, owner of Poderi Luigi Einaudi, one of whose estates sits on the Cannubi hill: Did obtaining a parcel of Cannubi change the consumer's perception of his wines? Matteo says that yes, people started to see them as more serious Barolo producers.
Founded at the turn of the twentieth century, Poderi Luigi Einaudi made big improvements after their acquisition of area called "Terlo" of which they now have 7 hectares (17 acres). Their ownership of Cannubi Cannubi (i.e. not one of the more controversial areas) crystallised their transition from grape buyers to Barolo vineyard owners.
But Matteo feels the defining characteristics of Cannubi are observable on the whole hill – including the vineyards of Cannubi San Lorenzo, Cannubi Muscatel etc. For him, this means the finesse and balance brought about by the sandy soils and lower altitudes. Cannubi is not like other areas of Barolo that produce big, concentrated wines, but Matteo maintains harmony is more important than anything when it comes to drinking.
-JMS
