McHenry Hohnen is a biodynamic winery in Margaret River, Australia, unafraid to take risks with varieties outside of the regional carapace of chardonnay and cabernet. This said, it was a troika of single-site chardonnay that impressed most when tasting the range. The finest, drawn from sand and limestone, is the Calgardup Brook Vineyard Chardonnay 2021, sourced from a coastal vineyard with a cooler, northern aspect (remember, this is the Southern Hemisphere).
To set its beauty in relief, its Burnside Vineyard and Hazel’s Vineyard siblings are further inland and hewn of granite and ironstone gravels, respectively. The former promotes a softer structural framework, while the latter confers greater fruit intensity due to granite’s refraction and reflection of heat.
Reminiscent of Puligny, France, before global warming, the Calgardup Brook is the embodiment of mineral-infused chardonnay, a category of abundance in Australia. Acidity is retained with just 30 percent of malolactic conversion, without forfeiting character. The kaleidoscopic flavors encompass quince, truffle and a whiff of brulee. The finish is long, energetic and thoroughly convincing.
Interestingly, the winemaker is an Italian who decided Margaret River’s surf and captivating beauty were good reasons to remain. While the wine drinks well with an aggressive decant, it will be best in five to eight years.
– Ned Goodwin MW
