It’s strange to think of Montalcino without Franco Biondi Santi, whose family arguably created the great wines of Brunello di Montalcino. The icon of Brunello died April 7 at 91 years old.
I had just visited Franco last year, after I had promised to come and taste his newest vintages and discuss his thoughts on Brunello, the past and future. This video must be one of the last ever filmed of the great man. He was such a gentleman with such a great passion for his wine and his wine region – to the very end.
I hope you enjoy the video.
I first met Franco in 1986 when I began seriously visiting Brunello producers as a wine critic and journalist. He always had his point of view about the great wine of Tuscany – one I admittedly didn’t always agree with. But I always listened, and I always learned something new from him.
Some of the greatest Italian wines of my life include Biondi-Santi Brunellos – particularly the 1955 and 1975 riservas. And I had the feeling during last year’s visit that he had been quietly making some improvements in his wines, slightly reducing the acidities.
Franco seemed to love one of his most recent vintages: 2007. “It is very close to the great 1997,” he said during a small tasting. “The 1997 is still the greatest wine that I ever made.”
He let me taste a riserva bottle that had been opened the night before my morning visit. It was so aromatic and delicate, yet the palate was fresh and firm with bright fruit but slightly hard tannins. I wrote, “A little severe.”
Franco said that his Brunellos needed to be opened at least eight hours in advance of serving. He had been saying this for almost a half a century. I must admit that it was a unique view of wine service. I always wondered who would call a restaurant the day before coming and have the Biondi Santi Brunello decanted at least eight hours before serving?
“I know that this practice is out of the normal world of wine,” he said when we discussed it again. “But it is necessary.”
But the gentleman of Brunello was always a little idiosyncratic. That’s why I will miss Franco and so will the wine world at large.
Originally posted September 28, 2012:
James visited the historical Tenuta Il Greppo in Motalcino, the estate where the legendary Biondi-Santi is made. In fact where, in 1888, Brunello di Montalcino was first concieved by Ferruccio Biondi Santi after a lengthy battle against phylloxera. It is located on the slopes of Montalcino and it includes 47 hectares of which only 25 are cultivated vineyard of the unique Sangiovese Grosso. In this video James sat down with owner Franco Biondi Santi and his son Jacopo Biondi Santi to taste their 2007, 2006 Riserva, 1997 Riserva and 1983.
While tasting Franco, Jacopo and James discussed the history of Biondi Santi and what makes their Brunello so unique. Watch the video for more. Enjoy!
Don't miss the Brunello report that was just released.
-JGA
Thanks James for sharing this amazing video!
G.A.