It’s no secret we’re big fans of Sonoma County here at JamesSuckling.com, as shown in our recent report on the region. Not only does it produce some of the best pinot noir and chardonnay in California and the world, but it also offers some of the greatest value wines.
Sonoma’s climate and landscape – ranging from the cool and misty coastline to the warmer, more continental areas toward the Mayacamas Mountains, with granite soil near the coast, decomposed sandstone and loam in the center and volcanic soil further east – make for excellent growing conditions for pinot noir. Wineries like Williams Selyem and Kristler have been bottling their own self-styled pinots here since the late 1970s, crafting wines with unique profiles.
Two Sonoma County’s AVAs in particular are known for their great value pinots: Sonoma Coast and the Russian River Valley. Sonoma Coast is one of the most unique and exciting subregions in all of California. The strong, cold winds that blow off of the Pacific Ocean help make it as cool, if not cooler than, Burgundy. The mineral rich soils give great drive and energy to the wines. The cooler, wetter climate of Sonoma Coast – it can get twice as much rain as neighboring AVAS – often results in higher acidity in the wines, with more restrained fruit and floral character. This translates to more nuanced and elegant bottlings from some of the top producers, including Littorai, Peay and Hirsch.
The Russian River Valley is a more centrally located AVA in Sonoma County, but the coastal influence is still strong here, with a misty marine layer keeping morning temperatures cool. But with a warmer overall climate and direct sun hitting it in the afternoon, the pinot noirs of the Russian River Valley have a plummier red fruit profile, with lower acidity and a richer mid-palate.
The soils here are loamy with some volcanic rock as well, giving a mineral lift and energy to the wines. Pinot noir made here can be on the bolder side but is always charming and precise.
Williams Selyem offers a great example of the possibilities for minerality and pure exuberance that pinot from the Russian River Valley can exude through one of its top offerings, the Sonoma County Russian River Valley Allen Vineyard 2019.
The winemaking in both places tends toward minimalism, but also comes with a determination to make wines that convey a sense of place. As Littorai’s owner, Ted Lemon, put it, “If the dirt’s right, you’re 90 percent there.” Many producers are letting the grapes lead the way and think of the vinification process as an extension of that, with very little intervention.
Below are eight fantastic pinot noirs that we feel embody all that is special and characteristic of Sonoma County. From the high-acidity elegance of Sonoma Coast to the fruitier and warming wines from Russian River Valley, and everything in between, great values abound. You don’t need to spend more than $35 at any reputable wine merchant to get a taste of Sonoma County at its best. Enjoy.
– Nathan Slone, Associate Editor
MARTIN RAY PINOT NOIR SONOMA COUNTY SONOMA COAST 2020 – JS93
KLwines.com: $15.95
Wine.com: $18.99
Totalwine.com: $19.97
ANGELINE VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR SONOMA COUNTY RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY 2020 – JS92
Wine.com: $18.99
CROSSBARN PINOT NOIR SONOMA COUNTY SONOMA COAST 2019 – JS92
Wine.com: $32.99
KLwines.com: $34.95
JJBuckley.com: $29.94
MIGRATION PINOT NOIR SONOMA COUNTY SONOMA COAST 2017 – JS92
JJBuckley.com: $30
OLEMA PINOT NOIR SONOMA COUNTY 2019 – JS92
Wine.com: $20z
KLwines.com: $19.95
Totalwine.com: $19.99
J VINEYARDS PINOT NOIR SONOMA COUNTY RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY 2017 – JS91
Totalwine.com: $33.97
Vivino: $34.99
ROUTE STOCK PINOT NOIR SONOMA COUNTY SONOMA COAST 2019 – JS91
Zachys.com: $25.99
Wine.com: $22.99
SCHUG PINOT NOIR SONOMA COUNTY SONOMA COAST 2019 – JS91
Wine.com: $19.99
