You might have already read our report on Chianti Classicos and all the changes in store for its top billing, Gran Selezione. This small classification that stands atop the Chianti pyramid represents just 5 to 6 percent of total volume for the Classico category, although this number is likely to rise.
When the classification debuted in February 2014, its wines were required to have an additional 0.5 percent of alcohol compared with the Riserva classification (13 percent versus 12.5 percent); a slightly higher total extract of 26g/l in comparison with Riserva’s 25g/l; and a minimum aging time before release of 30 months, compared with Riserva’s 24 months. The most important element for Gran Seleziones was that the winery making them could only use grapes from their own vineyards, with a tasting jury to decide if each wine was good enough to carry the moniker.
But Gran Selezione’s debut was greeted with skepticism and controversy. For one thing, instead of applying only to the most recent vintage, the classification could be retroactively applied to wines made as early as 2010, causing confusion among winemakers and the trade. And the quality of Gran Seleziones during those first couple of years was a decidedly mixed bag. While the better renditions followed along the same lines as a winery’s Chianti Classico Annata or Riserva bottlings but with more depth and a greater sense of the wine’s provenance, lesser producers either failed to make the necessary leap in their Gran Selezione bottlings or completely departed from the Chianti Classico designation.
READ MORE: CHIANTI CLASSICO’S TOP DESIGNATION UPS WINE GAME AMID RULE CHANGES
Some of these early so-called Gran Selezione bottlings were just too ordinary, if not dilute (especially in the weak 2014 vintage), while others juggled with extraction issues – lots of new wood – and worked on ripe fruit plushness. Some were even overripe. But none were typical of Chianti Classico, where wines are better known for their bright, lustrous, ruby-garnet color, racy, nervy red fruit, savory character, and, of course, great drinkability and food compatibility.
That said, the Gran Selezione classification sent the market – and the JamesSuckling.com Tasting Team – a strong message this year. As Francesco Ricasoli of Barone Ricasoli opined to James in a Zoom interview, Riserva was never going to be sufficient to show any particular Chianti Classico’s aspirational qualities, and the current crop of Gran Seleziones now more accurately reflects “the great job that many of the producers of Chianti Classico have been doing.”
We agree strongly. In fact, James for the first time rated a Chianti Classico wine a perfect 100 points, and it happened to be one of Ricasoli’s own Gran Selezione: the Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ceniprimo 2018.
One of the most heartening changes for the Gran Selezione classification that awaits final approval from the Italian government is the inclusion on the label of the name of the village or region the wine is from. These Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (Additional Geographical Units) will better communicate the provenance of the wines, according to the Chianti Classico Consortium, which came up with the new rules. This will apply only to the Gran Selezione classification for now, with Riserva and Annata to follow. With a wide viticultural area stretching from Firenze to the north and Siena to the south, Chianti Classico boasts a diversity of altitudes, exposures and soils.
We believe the new naming conventions will encourage producers to express the uniqueness of their terroirs and give more precise information about a wine’s provenance. The nuanced differences among wines from various communes will then become increasingly noticeable for consumers and trade alike.
Two other important changes on the way for Gran Selezione are the elimination of international grape varieties in the blend, and the minimal content of sangiovese will be lifted to 90 percent, from the current 80 percent. While many Gran Seleziones already conform to the 90 percent Sangiovese level – with several being pure sangiovese – some outstanding bottles will be left behind. They will soon need to adapt and change their blending recipes if they want to remain on board the first-class section of the Chianti Classico train.
The changes for Gran Selezione essentially mean the classification will have a whole new theme song – one that underlines their uniqueness and is played in an ingenious way. At a minimum, it looks like the Chianti Classico Consortium is finally lifting Gran Selezione to a deservedly premium status over their Annata and Riserva offerings. Behind it are a greater focus on provenance and the purer expressions of local varieties of sangiovese.
Despite the higher quality now on display from Gran Selezione wines, there are still a lot of great values out there. And for the most part, Gran Selezione is not yet a lot more expensive than Riserva. We have selected the following 10 bottles that scored 94+ points but retail for under $45. You can buy any of these to drink now or hold for a few years to enjoy a fuller flavor profile.
– Zekun Shuai, Associate Editor
Castello di Bossi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2016 – JS97
Vivino: $31.99 (on sale now)
Marchesi Antinori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Badia a Passignano 2018 – JS95
Zachys: $44.99
Renieri Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2018 – JS95
Totalwine.com: $34.99
Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Riserva di Fizzano Single Vineyard 2018 – JS95
Average price of previous vintages: $34
Tenuta di Bibbiano Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigna del Capannino 2016 – JS95
Zachys.com: $34.99
Wine.com: $36.99
Vivino: $36.99
Villa Trasqua Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Nerento 2015 – JS95
International Price: $32
Banfi Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Fonte alla Selva 2017 – JS94
Average price of previous vintages: $23
Mazzei Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello Fonterutoli 2018 – JS94
U.S. Price: $32
Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Oro Gran Selezione 2015 – JS94
Vivino: $35.99
Tenuta di Arceno Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Strada al Sasso 2017 – JS94
Vivino: $34.99
