Dirk van der Niepoort holds a bottle of one his sensational Douro wines. His whites are equal to his reds in quality.

Portugal has largely ignored popular international varietals and for good reason. Chardonnay and sauvignon blanc are uncommon; small amounts of syrah may be found (and is suited to some Portuguese climates); even fewer pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon vines are planted. In fact, these are forbidden for some DOC appellations such as Douro DOC. Wines that are made with the inclusion of grapes such as syrah are registered as Vinho Regional Duriense, a lower designation covering the same area.

The country’s unique point of difference comes from the fact that it has one of the greatest numbers of indigenous varieties. These number over 250 and are rarely found elsewhere in the world. To take an example, Niepoort’s Douro Redoma Reserva 2019, which we rated 95 points, was vinified with over 80-year-old vines of 15 different native varieties. Dirk Niepoort, the Portuguese winemaker and owner of Niepoort, explains that these were co-planted at altitudes of between 600m and 700m, resulting in a full-bodied white “with great structure, richness and intensity but very fine and elegant.”

Further to the south in the Alentejo, Howard’s Folly Vinho Regional Alentejano Sonhador 2018 has a similarly complex nature, made from a field blend of at least 13 different varietals. These are grown in minuscule quantities by about 20 farmers in the hills around Portalegre, a remarkable contrast to wine production in the rest of the world.

According to Howard Bilton, an Englishman who owns Howard’s Folly, while it could be argued that the relative absence of international grapes has cost Portugal, “there seems to be renewed interest in wines of difference and this is where Portugal scores highly together with its outstanding price/quality ratio which I don’t believe can be found anywhere else in the world.”

He adds that the fresher-style, high-altitude wines made in the Alentejo “are now coming of age and becoming treated with more seriousness.”

: Niepoort whites continue to be some of the best in Portugal.

: Fresh and vibrant wines from indigenous grape types in Portugal, such as the Aveleda Alvarinho Vinho Regional Minho Solos de Granito 2018, are set to pull ahead in the world of whites.

We tasted a few hundred reds and white from Portugal in September and we certainly embraced the unique personality of the whites. They differ in style, however, despite the heat in their respective growing areas, or perhaps because of it, the majority of whites you can find from Portugal exhibit bright, tangy acidity, counterbalancing the ripe stone, citrus and tropical fruit flavors. And of course, they are perfect for sunny retreats in the Mediterranean and to accompany local dishes, from delicate grilled fish or rustic seafood arroz, to the copious amounts of bacalhau consumed. Many are relatively low in alcohol.

Here are 11 Portuguese white wines that can be found for under $40. Alongside typical blends, watch out for some unexpected styles, including a dry, floral muscat, a refined alvarinho and an exciting orange wine from the Douro too. Scroll down to read the tasting notes (subscribers only).