Like its people and its gastronomy, Sicily’s wines are authentic and down to Earth. The island is attracting lots of attention for its world-class reds and whites, centered around Mount Etna and a volcanic sensibility (see our great value Etna Rosso picks). But don’t dismiss the workhorse nero d’Avola (known as calabrese in Calabria), a dark, thick-skinned grape that put Sicily on the global winemaking map. Best of all, there are lots of wines to seek out for less than $30.

Nero d’Avola means the black of “Avola,” a town in the very south of Sicily in Noto, where Planeta is known for making an excellent varietal wine called Santa Cecilia Noto (a little pricier than $30 thus not in our list, but still great value) in one of its five estates on the island. These estates combine to form a complete mosaic of winemaking in Sicily, showing how piecemeal and complex the winemaking is on the island, comprising diverse and distinctive styles from the fortified Marsala to some great amphora-aged wines (such as Pithos made by Azienda Agricola Cos).

I find many nero d’Avola wines comparable to warm-climate Bordeaux blended with syrah/shiraz, as the wine is usually swamped in flavors of rich, black fruit, often medium to full-bodied, exuding tobacco leaves and red capsicum as well as black pepper and other spices. The best, often coming from cooler sites and low-yielding vineyards, should have the depth and concentration to hold up the oak (if any) while not picking up too much oak tannin, giving a tight, structured yet very polished mouthfeel.

However, the quality of nero d’Avola is subject to fluctuation, and it is perfectly understandable if you have encountered a few disappointing renditions and now hold a grudge against the variety. Beware of the confected, overripe bottles with stewed fruit. The lesser examples also include oak-drenched versions that override the fruit and some rustic and oxidized wines with an obvious rotten apple and soy sauce character.

Much less likely to be jammy or thickly ponderous is Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the only DOCG of the island where nero is blended with the more exuberant and softer frappato (think Beaujolais cru wine) and which makes one of the most exciting, fresh and highly drinkable wines in Sicily. Cos, Planeta, Donnafugata and the avant-garde winemaker Arianna Occhipinti (whose uncle Giusto Occhipinti makes wine for Cos) all have some excellent bottles with juicy fruit and elegance.

The following eight bottles all cost less than $30, including some of my personal favorites from Gulfi, Tasca d’Almerita and Saia from Feudo Maccari. This list goes for a purer expression of the variety so we have not included the great-value blends from Cerasuolo di Vittoria. I hope these brooding yet fresh expressions of nero d’Avola can entice your palate with their hearty, authentic fruit. And for those who still think less of nero d’Avola, maybe it’s worth giving it another shot.